Prepper Forum / Survivalist Forum banner
1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car overheated and now has a leak. its not the radiator i don't see water dripping from there. i add coolant to the reserve to be on safe side before i go anywhere.i added some this morning and i heard a gurgling sound that emptied out tbe reserve bottle but after adding more it stopped and it was full. i waited a lil to see if it was gonna drip the whole gallon but it didn'tyet the bottle was empty. after i drive water drips from passenger side not a lot but still its dripping and there's water by the pedals. I'm taking it to the shop but I'm wondering if it can wait or is it a fix right now type thing.if anybody have an idea of what's wrong please post.thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I checked the oil and no its not milky. No water on passenger side atleast didn't notice any. i kinda know its not in the oil cos there's not white smoke. am i right?? I think my water pump is getting ready to quit. not saying i know it all though just being a single mom make you learn stuff :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,673 Posts
There would be white smoke (actually steam) coming out of the tailpipe if the head gasket was leaking near a cylinder. Another symptom of a head gasket would be water in the oil. This would case it to look like a milkshake. One would think if it was the water pump, it would be leaking out of the weep hole. But you say you see no leaks. Check all the hoses including the heater hoses for signs of water marks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,816 Posts
Yep, check the oil and check the transmission fluid if you have an automatic. If your oil looks like a milkshake or looks like its has some yogurt in it you more than likely have a blown head gasket, warped head or a crack in the engine block. If the auto Trans fluid looks like that then thee is a leaking coolant line in your radiator that's been breeched and cross contaminating your fluids. None of which are good! If your car didn't start having this problem until you over heated it and now its drinking large amounts of coolant fluid you have in all probability warped the block/heads or blown a head gasket. If the engine is running hot now on a regular basis this is almost a guarantee.

I would also check the water pump. There is a orfice on it that will usually weep water, sometimes badly in extreme cases that will indicate you need a new water pump before it actually craps out on you. On a Chevy Small Block this is just under the snout that the pulley attaches to on the pump. This could explain your water leak on the passenger side perhaps and could be where your loosing coolant at and the cause for your over heating after you have lost some coolant.

Another thing that will cause over heating on a care is a collapsed water hose or a bad thermostate. I check both the second I notice any of the engines on my vehicles starting to run at more than about 25 degrees above its normal range and it aint a 110 degrees outside in bumper to bumper traffic. Yes I am a gauge watcher in a serious kind of way! If you wait for the "idiot light" to come on, by the time it does you have most likely already done damage to your vehicles engine...it might still run, but it wont likely run for very long. As a preventative since I hate surprises, I change out the hoses on my cooling system about once every two years irregardless. Anytime the coolant system gets maintenance and it does at least once a year in the fall I automatically have the thermostat replaced as well. I have Chevy Small Blocks so this is easy to get to for the mechanic cost about 13-19 bucks and is some damned good insurance that my thermostat wont be the problem, ever! When your flushing the coolant system and replacing the fluid already this adds less than 20 bucks to the repair cost and takes away the most likely culprit on an over heating issue on a engine that's been operating fine otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know where the transmition fluid thing is :( i did go under the car the water comes from this square thing its close to the timing belt just down the bottom. idk hopefully its not expensive
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,353 Posts
My car overheated and now has a leak. its not the radiator i don't see water dripping from there. i add coolant to the reserve to be on safe side before i go anywhere.i added some this morning and i heard a gurgling sound that emptied out tbe reserve bottle but after adding more it stopped and it was full. i waited a lil to see if it was gonna drip the whole gallon but it didn'tyet the bottle was empty. after i drive water drips from passenger side not a lot but still its dripping and there's water by the pedals. I'm taking it to the shop but I'm wondering if it can wait or is it a fix right now type thing.if anybody have an idea of what's wrong please post.thanks.
That was right adding to the reserve. The overflow is just that. Overflow. When the coolant expands, it goes into the overflow. Then when it cools, it "shrinks" and goes back in the cooling system. Probably the gurgling sound you heard, along with the air escaping.

By passenger side, and pedals, do you mean inside, or outside?

Inside could be heater core. It could seep from the heater core, drip onto trim or dash, and run until it finds a place to drip (where its dripping may not be where the leak is)

Outside could be a number of things. Pinhole leak in hoses, weep hole on the water pump, I know of an el camino that leaks THROUGH the thermostat housing. Not the seal or hose. Through the housing itself.

Depending on the vehicle/engine, buick 3.8's are known for intake gaskets failing, letting water into the motor.

Dodge v8 has exhaust manifold studs that are in the water jacket.

Cars with radiators that have built in trans coolers have been known to crack and put trans fluid in the coolant and vice versa.

Cracked head, or blown head gasket, 99% times you'll know (between cylinders) Bad running, steam out of the tailpipe (white is water, blue is oil, black is unburned fuel), constant almost instant overheating. Pull the plugs. If one is immaculately clean, there's an issue there. To determine if its a head gasket, have the shop do a compression test. That'll rule out head gaskets (internal). If 2 cylinders are low compression next to each other, then that's where the blow is . The other 1% of head gasket failure is what I call external. It's where the head gasket blows between a water port and exhaust valve. That pushes water out of the motor and directly through the tailpipe.

It's a tough call. Easiest would be to pressure test it with dye in the system. Then you'll know exactly where the leak is, coupled with a compression test.

I wish you were close. I'd do these tests for you. But any good mechanic will suggest these tests before suggesting what could be wrong. I've gotten great deals on cars because what they thought was a blown head gasket, was a bad valve. Head still came off, but I had a head waiting so the repair was near free (still replaced head gaskets, and all top end gaskets) drove that car until the trans went out. Wasn't worth it to fix at that point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,123 Posts
Sounds like the heater core.
Can you tell us the year / make/ model / engine / mileage of the car in question?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,595 Posts
If the water is inside by the peddles about the only thing it could be is a heater hose or the heater. I would fill the radiator then put a pressure checker on it put around 20 psi and the leak will show up.
Auto zone may let you borrow one.

Edit: go with 12 psi unless the cap has a pressure rating on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
Had a 1998 OLDS 88 I allowed to get hot, the plastic intake manifold warped allowing the cooling jacket to leak cooling into the intake, not into the oil but the combustion area (top of the pistons). Mechanic said it is common in GM products during that time. Something to think about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,319 Posts
If the water is inside by the peddles about the only thing it could be is a heater hose or the heater. I would fill the radiator then put a pressure checker on it put around 20 psi and the leak will show up.
Auto zone may let you borrow one.
That's a good idea, but be careful if it is an older vehicle, 20 psi could be too much for an old radiator to take and you could turn a $20 problem into a couple hundred.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,595 Posts
That's a good idea, but be careful if it is an older vehicle, 20 psi could be too much for an old radiator to take and you could turn a $20 problem into a couple hundred.
Probably right I will edit it to 12 lbs that should be sufficient on all vehicles, I have an air compressor with a regulator that I just turn to the proper pressure ( many times it is stated on the radiator cap) and just hook it up to the over flow tube, the cap will work as a check valve and pressurize the radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes the water its inside. its not a lot like flooding but its wet and my windshield fogs from the inside in the area where the defogger is. is that a super bad thing? Is adding coolant before i go anywhere gonna damage the car more? I just can't really afford a big bill right now. i normally take my car to the shop when i get my refund and do a full check on it so till then its gonna be hard to afford.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So adding coolant why does it drips some of it? It ill drip maybe like an ounce. or so. Is it ok me adding to reserve to drive is it something that can wait till feb?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,595 Posts
Yes the water its inside. its not a lot like flooding but its wet and my windshield fogs from the inside in the area where the defogger is. is that a super bad thing? Is adding coolant before i go anywhere gonna damage the car more? I just can't really afford a big bill right now. i normally take my car to the shop when i get my refund and do a full check on it so till then its gonna be hard to afford.
Well you just answered my next question if it is the heater it will usually fog up the windows.

I have had pretty good results using Bar's stop leak it is worth a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,353 Posts
Yup. Heater core. I think on those cars, the core is recessed. Has to "fill up" the area before you'll see anything.

Look like Dash may have to come out :(

BUT it "should" only be a $400-$500 job. Depending on the hourly rate and parts charge.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top