[LunaticFringeInc]

Is this ammunition still using corrosive primers and needs to be treated like run of the mill surplus does after firing it through your gun? Bought a box which was made for Academy Outdoors to run through the Mosin when I get it put back together. Please enlighten me...

 

[bigdogbuc]

Is this ammunition still using corrosive primers and needs to be treated like run of the mill surplus does after firing it through your gun? Please enlighten me...

It is advertised as non-corrosive. Appears that the same company who manufactures Brown/Silver Bear, manufacturers it. Possibly even Prvi. And it gets good reviews. Guns that fire Corrosive Ammo can be cleaned with water, Windex, Vinegar, even good old Hoppes #9. Pay attention to the barrel/bolt face. If I remember correctly, you're simply trying to neutralize the salts. So pretty much, if you clean your guns relatively soon after a trip to the range, their shouldn't be a problem. I clean after every trip to the range, usually the same day, but never more than about 3 days.

But don't worry, the barrel won't melt off if you don't do it before you leave the range!

 

[Rigged for Quiet]

LF, is it cheaper than the $12 Herters at Cabelas?

 

[LunaticFringeInc]

yeah, by 3 bucks!

 

[Smitty901]

Corrosive ammo is pretty much out of the system. But you still need to be-careful corrosive primers were around for years after ,corrosive powered was removed.
If you think it maybe corrosive you can still fire it .
The weapon should be was with hot water and soap,rinsed ,dried then clean as normal and should have a normal clean done a day a later
This is another good reason to use CLP.
I know they want to sell fancy cleaners but hot water and soap is the stuff we used it in the army for years.

 

[LunaticFringeInc]

Corrosive ammo is pretty much out of the system. But you still need to be-careful corrosive primers were around for years after ,corrosive powered was removed.

That's what I am trying to determine...is it corrosive or not. Doesn't really matter one way or the other when it comes to shooting it but it does matter to the extent it gets broken down and cleaned and which cleaning procedures need to be employed. According to the serial/lot number it was manufactured in Russia for academy outdoors in May 2013. I know that the stuff coming in spam cans /sealed Tins and manufactured years ago should be considered corrosive, just don't know if this holds true for some other "higher quality" more recent manufactured ammunition as well. I got a decent looking non-collectible mosin nugget with a nice shiny bore and would kinda like to keep it that way.

 

[Smitty901]

Not my post but a copy . This is one of the ways we used to test it

THE BRITE NAIL TEST

1. Take a suspect round, pull the bullet and dump out the powder. Best to also take a known corrosive round as well for comparison.

2. Take a few brite (i.e. non-galvanized) steel nails with a head size just large enough to fit into the case mouth. Degrease the nails in acetone or other and roughen them slightly with sandpaper. Drive the nails into a block of wood.

3. Slip the empty cartridge cases over the nail heads, and taking appropriate safely precautions (shielding, eye protection, gloves, etc) pop the primers with a punch and hammer.

4. Leave the cases undisturbed on the nails for 24 hours in a warm place (I usually leave them on top of the water heater) and then examine the nails.

If the nail looks black and smokey, then the ammo is noncorrosive. If the nail has red flecks, then the ammo is corrosive. It will be obvious - but doing a known corrosive ammo as a control is helpful.

 

[LunaticFringeInc]

Interesting...thanks for posting that tidbit!