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Discussion Starter #1
I was putting a muzzle brake on a brand new Spikes Tactical barrel and broke off the protruding notch that sits behind the barrel nut and keeps the barrel from spinning (sorry, I can't remember what it's called). I am a decent sized guy but can't believe I used that much torque. Well... I'll let you know if Spikes will warranty it or not. Hmmmm... Still scratching my head on this one.
 

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Gunsmithing is for gunsmiths.
It is not a major feat you attempted.....
but I guess now you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
True... I'm not inexperienced... Just amazed. I didn't think this was possible. I've asked a few other armorers and none of them has seen this before.
 

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wow what acrummy deal just whenyou think yer almost done with a project. how much will this cost to correct?
 

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Ouch!! :-o Sorry. You are supposed to clamp the barrel in a vise, close to the end of the barrel/flash hider, when doing such work. With protective covers for the vise jaws of course....aluminum, nylon or thick leather. A proper barrel vise block is best. It may not have felt like a lot of torque but as you apply the torque, it ends up being a lot down the other end. Locating pins in anything are typically not designed to take a lot of side force. They are most often hardened steel. When a hardened pin is in a hard metal, they usually shear or even shatter rather than bend.... when subjected to a lot of force. If the locating pin fits into hard metal on one side and soft on the other....like aluminum....rather than break, they can tear up the aluminum they locate into something fierce and gouge things up badly. Often a mishap like that is even worse.

That locating pin is only about 1/8" diameter right? It wouldn't take a lot to break it. All it's supposed to do is index the barrel to the upper. Hopefully Spikes will see you right. Is the hole clear or did one half of the sheared piece break off flush? It may have to be drilled out. If it all came out the fix is easy....get another pin. I've even heard of people using 1/8" drill bit shanks in a pinch.

It shouldn't be too much of a big deal....just a PITA and a most unwelcome stoppage to your progress. All the best with it, hope you get it fixed soon and for cheap.
 

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Fumbles is right. Should have used a padded vise closer to the end. Even if Spike's will fix, the wait time is going to be long.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You are supposed to clamp the barrel in a vise...
It was in a vice... properly locked down, and bolted to the table. And although I am not formally trained, the guy helping me has his own armory and firearms shop and has been doing this for quite awhile. It may sound fishy to you... but believe me... we were doing everything right. My only guess it that it had to be a defect. We did not have that much torque on it.

"How much will this cost to correct?" Well... if Spikes will send another... just the cost to ship it back. If not... it's a $230 barrel... plus shipping. Still... I'm crossing my fingers that Spikes will do the right thing. In the mean time... my dealer has about 13 barrels already en route... and has already promised me one regardless of what Spikes does. They are supposed to be in any day now. In the meantime... my friend nearby had a few spare ARs lying around and loaned me an upper so at least I'm functional until I can fix mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is the hole clear or did one half of the sheared piece break off flush? It may have to be drilled out. If it all came out the fix is easy....get another pin. I've even heard of people using 1/8" drill bit shanks in a pinch.
It broke off flush. I hadn't thought about drilling it and welding in my own pin. Hmmm... If Spikes won't replace it, I'll hold on to the barrel and play with it later. But... I'm kind of anal and like things my life depends on to be in tip top shape. So... I can guarantee I'll have a new barrel in it by this weekend. But... a spare barrel with a welded pin might serve well as a backup. I'll definitely have to look into that. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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