[PalmettoTree]

I am looking to buy the new model. I will remove the flash suppressor and install a suppressor. This will get in the way of the iron sites. So I will install a scope or some other sight system. Likely both the suppressor and scope/site will need to be removed for packing.

Now what sight system will minimize the need to re-zero each time reinstalled?

 

[Fuzzee]

Any quality scope with a quality quick release mount that attaches to the 10/22's supplied receiver rail should hold zero well enough with removal and reattach. I don't know why you'd need to remove it though for packing unless your going to use a huge scope and pack in a tight space. The 10/22 for survival purposes the way I see it is a close range, small game rifle. You don't need a heavy power scope for that, even if you have bad vision as you should be wearing glasses at all times. I use a Weaver 1-3 on mine and love it, but an Aimpoint Micro is an excellent choice and there's no need to remove it as it has a small imprint on top the rifle.

Weaver 1-3x20 Classic V Rifle Scope

Riflescope Mounts | LaRue Tactical

SWFA Riflescopes Aimpoint Red Dot Sights Aimpoint Micro Red Dot Sights Aimpoint Micro Red Dot Sights

 

[Verteidiger]

You should not have to re-zero your optic. It will mount onto the Weaver rail that attaches to your receiver portion, so it will stay zeroed.

You are removing the barrel when you take down the gun. Your optic is unaffected by this.

 

[PalmettoTree]

Thanks for the advice. You are right I don't need much of a scope power wise. I've been wearing glasses since I was 5. I only take them off to shower and sleep.

thanks for the advice.

 

[alterego]

I've got news for you. Any type of fire arm that the barrel is separated from the main frame and the scope is mounted to the frame will need to be re-sighted, it may not be off by much but it will be off.

If the scope was mounted to the barrel it would work, not the other way around.

I here you all doubting me, that's fine, try it and you will see, most of you may not be marksmen enough to even see the variation.

 

[PalmettoTree]

I've got news for you. Any type of fire arm that the barrel is separated from the main frame and the scope is mounted to the frame will need to be re-sighted, it may not be off by much but it will be off.

If the scope was mounted to the barrel it would work, not the other way around.

I here you all doubting me, that's fine, try it and you will see, most of you may not be marksmen enough to even see the variation.

No I do not doubt you. That is the reason for the question. But the question is about a 22. I do not plan on any 100 yd.+ targets. I have not even seen one of the new takedowns.

They are popular and it appeared the rear sight is not part of the barrel. So I'm just asking. If you cannot zero; take it down; put it back together; hit your target; what good is it?

The tolerances must be pretty tight.

 

[Harlie]

Own two, and one is a SBR w/can. Factory iron will still allow sight picture w/can. Repeatability is good for gov't work and squirel head shots. that remark about not know the difference is BS. Had scope on first TDR and repeatibility was fine. But hadn't removed and re mounted scope and tested. Have a quick take down mount, el-cheapo.
Harlie

 

[www.BigBugOutTrucks.com]

I have played with many set ups for the 1022 take down.
I threaded the barrel in a way that left the front iron sight intact before ruger decided to do it for production. ( this was a difficult process )
I took a standard butler creek 1022 folding stock and cut and modified it to conform to the 1022 takedown.
I added a military Grip pod system (GPS)
I added a barrel band that had 2 weaver style rails and a sling mount.
with the zoomable 500 lumen flashlight and the GPS mounted to the barrel band i can press the flash light button with my thumb while gripping the GPS ( the 500 lumen led also zooms in tight enough to allow me to make 100 yard night shots.
The scope mounts were from walmart. They put the scope at the right height to allow me to use the iron sights. I never have to re zero my scope with this take down. It is way more accurate than the ammo allows it to be. (If I remove the barrel and re attach it it stays zeroed)

One option that I have yet to explore is to build it in a bullpup configuration and use a dove tail weaver mount in the place of my rear iron sight. This would allow me to use the Bushnell trs 25 red dot and mount it directly on the barrel (its only $90, has a 3 mil dot, is waterproof and very small). With the red dot mounted on the barrel it would make this fire arms take down pack size much smaller with a very fast target acquisition. ( the only down side to removing your rear iron sight is that if you kill your battery in the red dot ...... well your out of luck!) I can pop 8" plates 10 out of 10 time at 200 yards with that bushnell trs 25 on my standard 1022 so I really dont think a scope is needed once you get very very familiar with ranging it.

 

[www.BigBugOutTrucks.com]

One other thing that I did was ditch the cool bag that came with the take down because its not a quality bag and it does not fit into my BOB in any way! My current set up still fits in my BOB with 1500 rounds of ammo and a ton of other goodies!

 

[Seneca]

Any combination of base and rings that will get you the height necessary to see through the scope and over the can will work. I might suggest getting the can first so that you'll know which rings and bases will work to get you the scope height you need.

The magnification or X power of scope is entirely up to you and what your needs or preferences are. I like a 2X7 on the 1022, yet that is my preference and may not be suitable to you. Honestly I think the tolerance vs accuracy issue is moot. The 1022 takedown has all the accuracy necessary (and then some) to make pop cans dance.

 

[Nathan Jefferson]

I have played with many set ups for the 1022 take down.
I threaded the barrel in a way that left the front iron sight intact before ruger decided to do it for production. ( this was a difficult process )
I took a standard butler creek 1022 folding stock and cut and modified it to conform to the 1022 takedown.
I added a military Grip pod system (GPS)
I added a barrel band that had 2 weaver style rails and a sling mount.
with the zoomable 500 lumen flashlight and the GPS mounted to the barrel band i can press the flash light button with my thumb while gripping the GPS ( the 500 lumen led also zooms in tight enough to allow me to make 100 yard night shots.
The scope mounts were from walmart. They put the scope at the right height to allow me to use the iron sights. I never have to re zero my scope with this take down. It is way more accurate than the ammo allows it to be. (If I remove the barrel and re attach it it stays zeroed)

One option that I have yet to explore is to build it in a bullpup configuration and use a dove tail weaver mount in the place of my rear iron sight. This would allow me to use the Bushnell trs 25 red dot and mount it directly on the barrel (its only $90, has a 3 mil dot, is waterproof and very small). With the red dot mounted on the barrel it would make this fire arms take down pack size much smaller with a very fast target acquisition. ( the only down side to removing your rear iron sight is that if you kill your battery in the red dot ...... well your out of luck!) I can pop 8" plates 10 out of 10 time at 200 yards with that bushnell trs 25 on my standard 1022 so I really dont think a scope is needed once you get very very familiar with ranging it.

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Sweet setup! Almost makes me want to go out and buy one of these right now.

I've been toying with the idea but at 400+ I think I might just stick with my regular boring 10/22... Still need a .22 bolt action first though, so probably won't even be in the market for a year, but man now I want one!

 

[bigdogbuc]

No I do not doubt you. That is the reason for the question. But the question is about a 22. I do not plan on any 100 yd.+ targets. I have not even seen one of the new takedowns.

They are popular and it appeared the rear sight is not part of the barrel. So I'm just asking. If you cannot zero; take it down; put it back together; hit your target; what good is it?

The tolerances must be pretty tight.

If I'm not mistaken, the whole point of Ruger's take down design was re-zeroing was not necessary. As you stated, "what's the point?" if it doesn't maintain zero. I think you'll be fine. I have a Centerpoint Dual Illuminated Reticle 3x9x32 (red/green) mounted on my Marlin 795. Works great! It came with the rifle, found a second one on Gunbroker for $10.

 

[Verteidiger]

If you look at the 10/22 Takedown, the iron sights are mounted to the barrel, so no zero shift there.

The optic mounts to the receiver - nothing moves there.

The barrel is reattached and ratchets into position, and Ruger actually states zero is unaffected.

The gun was made by engineers who know a little about how to make accurate semi-auto .22s - it is certain they took this aspect into account when they designed the gun and throughout the testing and development processes.

 

[PalmettoTree]

Thank you all for participating.

 

[www.BigBugOutTrucks.com]

What would really really excite me is if ruger made a 10/22 take down in .22 magnum, Ruger use to make the standard 10/22 in .22 magnum but stopped :|?