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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rather than dredge up my old thread about safes, it's in a better place...I thought I start a new one...Since a month of research, two months of waiting for it to be built and another two weeks of trying to find somebody who actually wanted to help me wrestle with an 800 lbs. safe is finally over. I can now say the quest is over, it's here it's in, I am done!...and done in...:D::clapping::

Looking back, My best advice to those looking to buy a safe. Sharpen your pencil do the research, if you can't find the safe you want on the showroom floor, reputable safe companies will work with you to get you what you want. If you decide to go the special order route be prepared to wait.

Have a plan in place as to how you are going to get it home and installed. That was my short coming. It's one thing to have somebody tell you they'll help and another if they show up. I thought I had may bases covered until the time came and then I got to see (to my dismay) how many people suddenly had other things to do. Be prepared to do it yourself, because that may be the case.
 

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I was wondering if you can just buy the door for a safe the rest you could make with a welder and plasma torch. You could make it out of 4'x8'x1/8" sheet steel and angle iron to any size you want. In fact I am thinking of enlarging the one I have by cutting the sides out and extending it. It would also be more secure because it would no longer fit throug any door. For fire protection just use 2 layers of 1/2 dry wall as it seems that is what all the safe companies use.
 

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Two things I suggest if you have a safe especially if it is in the basement. Get some of the boxed silica gel that is made for safes to keep the moisture out. They have a special tape that lets you know when they need to be renewed by putting them in the oven for a couple of hours. I also have a small piece of steel that I ground down to the bare metal and place it in the safe. That way when ever I open the safe I can glance at the piece of bare steel and see if any rust is forming in it. If no rust is present then I know I shouldn't have rust forming of my guns .
 

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For moisture control I have 4 of these in my safe, rotating one out each week for drying. Stackon Dehumidifier They are a little more $ up front but they make it very easy on me.

I also keep some damprid in there too, it helps pick up the slack if it suddenly gets extra damp. You can usually pick it up at a hardware store, but for a description you can go here. Damprid
 

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No doubt many of you have the skill to make your own safe.

One question, I thought fire proof safes contained water bladders for fire proofing.

I know many safe companies will sell you vault doors for the do-it-yourself.

I have come to find that I do not want my papers, wife's jewelry, and PMs in a safe with my guns.

If you keep your guns separate the wife does not meet to know when you buy a new gun. Then when she notices you can say, " oh, I've had that gun."
 

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No doubt many of you have the skill to make your own safe.

One question, I thought fire proof safes contained water bladders for fire proofing.

I know many safe companies will sell you vault doors for the do-it-yourself.

I have come to find that I do not want my papers, wife's jewelry, and PMs in a safe with my guns.

If you keep your guns separate the wife does not meet to know when you buy a new gun. Then when she notices you can say, " oh, I've had that gun."
My safe is in the garage with the majority of my guns, only I know the combination. If I'm gone it's going to take a good locksmith to get it.

Everything else is in the gun 'cabinet' (lighter sheet metal), the wife stores her stuff in there, and documents are in a firesafe inside the cabinet.

I hate having to explain all my toys.
 

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For moisture control I have 4 of these in my safe, rotating one out each week for drying. Stackon Dehumidifier They are a little more $ up front but they make it very easy on me.

I also keep some damprid in there too, it helps pick up the slack if it suddenly gets extra damp. You can usually pick it up at a hardware store, but for a description you can go here. Damprid
Thanks for the tip I didn't know there was such a thing. My safe also thanks you.
 

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Fire brick mortar works better than drywall but it is about four times the cost - it doesn't crumble or fall apart. It is able to stop a cutting torch from being the only tool you need to break in.
 

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Thanks for the tip I didn't know there was such a thing. My safe also thanks you.
yeah, its a real pain having my safe in the garage, but our house isn't that big and it won't fit anywhere else (except the master bedroom, and that wasn't happening.). With those 4 stack-ons, the damp rid (this stuff seriously works AWESOME) and the SQCG on guns and frog lube on knives that I put on I don't find rust on anything stored. and I live in a VERY humid region where everything likes to rust just sitting outside.
 

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Seneca:

I am curious about which manufacturer you chose.

If it is not a state secret, can you tell us which company's product you decided on?

I need a new gun safe.

Thanks!

- Vert
 

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In the push for economy there are a LOT of inferior safes out there. Most use a couple layers of 1/8" steel in the door or even less and wont keep out a couple thugs with a breaker bar for more than a few minutes.

I purchased a Heritage safe many years ago and it uses a 3/8" solid steel door and a 1.5 hour 1200 degree rating. Similar to this one

Centennial Series Safes | Heritage Safe Company- Home Safes, Gun Safes

I have heard good things about Liberty safes as well, plan on spending 2 thousand for a really good one, the cheaper ones are better than nothing but just barely.
 

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Bolting the safe to the floor properly can mean the difference between taking under 5 minutes to pop it and 20. Bonus time for putting it in a tight place like a closet or something to further limit their possible leverage.

A good safecracker will always get into your safe. Period. It's just how much can you afford to throw at problem to slow him down & to keep the amateurs out?

I'd agree on the $2k mark. $1200+ will get you a pretty reasonable one, but $2k is really beefy.

I bought a $1500 liberty with a 45 min fire rating & more than enough capacity for my needs for now. It was marginally cheaper than other compatible options. I am under no illusions a competent attacker could pop the safe while I'm at work. But they would have to be competent, determined & prepared. Which includes knowing it's there in the first place. I also have an excellent alarm system that so rarely gives false positives most neighbors will check things out... her name is Dori.
 

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I was trying to reply to this yesterday but couldn't find the company's website, I think they let it lapse. But Johnson Safe company in INDIANA not Ohio, makes some of the best safes money can buy. And they will custom build pretty much anything you want (and if you are within a few hours of driving they will even build into a location.). They are very pricey but they are awfully sweet!

And to double down on what MT rancher said, a LOT of inferior safes are in the market. I'd probably say it's even the majority of safes right now. When I bought mine a year ago almost half the safes under the $1000 mark where made in china, about another quarter were made in India or pakistan or some similar 3rd world economy.

I went with a cheaper model, but at least it was made in the US.
 

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Congrats on the new safe, post up some pictures if you get a chance. What I learned in the safe buying process was to take a really good look at the manufacturers warranty before buying. I chose a Liberty safe due to the lifetime warranty and the fact that they pay the freight in the event of a problem. If the safe needs to be shipped to the manufacturer, freight both ways is going to get expensive quick. If the manufacturer is willing to pay the freight both ways, to me that says that they believe you will never need to send it back and if you do they will take care of you. I also picked the Liberty because it was made in the U.S.A. I also learned to buy twice the safe you think you need, i.e. if you think you need a 24 gun safe you need to buy at least a 48 gun and a 64 would be even better.

-Infidel
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Vert,

It's not a state secret...

Yet I do want to keep some details to a minimum. I went with a Liberty safe. One of their better rated ones. Not their top of the line safe, but close. It may be overkill and if it is...then...all I'm out is a little extra money, better that than experiencing the problems that often arise from not spending enough. Been there...

The one I bought is about twice the (advertised) size I thought I'd need, so as to get enough room inside to store what I have without them being jammed together and cramped for space. Worked out perfect.
 

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Vert,

It's not a state secret...

Yet I do want to keep some details to a minimum. I went with a Liberty safe. One of their better rated ones. Not their top of the line safe, but close. It may be overkill and if it is...then...all I'm out is a little extra money, better that than experiencing the problems that often arise from not spending enough. Been there...

The one I bought is about twice the (advertised) size I thought I'd need, so as to get enough room inside to store what I have without them being jammed together and cramped for space. Worked out perfect.
Thank you, very much, Seneca!

I was really looking for what brand name you picked so I can look at their models.

Appreciate your response and congrats on the new gun vault...!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
MR,
There are some very good safes no doubt. I looked closely at the Centennial safes and Bighorn safes. I was somewhat surprised to find that Bighorn safes are manufactured here in the valley and sold locally through D&B supply. Both are good quality and very beefy safes.

I agree, there are some inferior (imported) safes that fall into that category as do the heavier gauge steel cabinets billed as safes which are simply a cabinet built with heavier sheet metal. While they do serve a purpose, and there are uses and applications for such items, to call them safes is a stretch.

Fallon,
I agree safe placement should be given careful consideration and bolting it down is necessary. Any safe can be defeated...the better the safe the longer it takes for it to be defeated. The longer it takes for the safe to be defeated the more likely the idiot will either give up or be caught. With a good warranty either outcome is acceptable.
 
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