[Chiefster23]

I’ve been using Hoppes #9 for years. It does a pretty good job removing powder residue but a lousy job removing copper fouling. I’m tired of swabbing my gun barrels two or three times a day for a week to remove the copper. So who has recommendations for a good product to remove both powder and copper?

 

[Mad Trapper]

Shooters Choice works good.

Don't let the copper get built up. A wet patch after removing the powder overnight then a bronze brush and a few wet then dry patches.

P.S. rinse your bronze brush off, it will eat that too.

 

[Slippy]

I've been using Hoppes #9 for years. It does a pretty good job removing powder residue but a lousy job removing copper fouling. I'm tired of swabbing my gun barrels two or three times a day for a week to remove the copper. So who has recommendations for a good product to remove both powder and copper?

I've never used anything specifically designed to remove copper residue (I've always used Hoppes, CLP, Frog Lube Products etc) so I texted one of my buddies, a competition shooter, and he mentioned a product called JB Compound & Kroil Oil that he used for copper and other crud that may build up. This guy shoots A LOT!

Anyway, found it at Brownells below;

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...g-paste/j-b-bore-compound-kroil-prod1159.aspx

 

[1skrewsloose]

Been using Kroil for years instead of stuff like WD-40 for rusted bolts. Guess I never bothered to read the can, does say for cleaning guns and rifle barrels, creeps into openings as small as one millionth of an inch. According to the label on the can.

 

[Mad Trapper]

Been using Kroil for years instead of stuff like WD-40 for rusted bolts. Guess I never bothered to read the can, does say for cleaning guns and rifle barrels, creeps into openings as small as one millionth of an inch. According to the label on the can.

You can make your own penetrating oil, 1:1 acetone and ATF

 

[1skrewsloose]

@madtrapper, thanks, Kroil is spendy, I have it cause it was paid for by a prior employer.

 

[Slippy]

You can make your own penetrating oil, 1:1 acetone and ATF

(Slippy is one sneaky bastich, one day he "slipped" on up and did a little Sneaking around and Rec-Onoitering on Mad Trapper's Laboratory. Trapper had Bunsen Burners and Beakers bubbling up concoctions left and right..

I ain't gonna lie to you, he may or may not have had some liberals on the medieval torture rack in the room he had labeled "Human Chemical Studies And the US Libtard Experiment 101"...:vs_whistle: )

 

[Mad Trapper]

@madtrapper, thanks, Kroil is spendy, I have it cause it was paid for by a prior employer.

They did testing on bolts/nuts put in salt water, that mix worked as well as any commercial stuff. They checked the bolts with a torque wrench.

 

[Back Pack Hack]

.......Trapper had Bunsen Burners and Beakers bubbling up concoctions left and right............

 

[Elvis]

NRA magazine had a article 2 issues back about how to remove copper but I can't find the article online. The "expert" listed several of his favorite copper removers and would swab the barrel with the copper remover and let it sit for a while before running a nylon brush and then a patch. It often would take 5-10 applications to get all of the copper out of a heavily plated barrel.

I used to never run a bronze brush but have since learned that after cleaning a barrel with just patches if I ran a brush through it was amazing how much more crap came out when I ran a wet patch through again.

 

[Mad Trapper]

NRA magazine had a article 2 issues back about how to remove copper but I can't find the article online. The "expert" listed several of his favorite copper removers and would swab the barrel with the copper remover and let it sit for a while before running a nylon brush and then a patch. It often would take 5-10 applications to get all of the copper out of a heavily plated barrel.

I used to never run a bronze brush but have since learned that after cleaning a barrel with just patches if I ran a brush through it was amazing how much more crap came out when I ran a wet patch through again.

Some "shot out" barrels are just too fouled with copper.

 

[Back Pack Hack]

"Clean guns"? Why? Just sell 'em and buy new ones. :tango_face_wink:

 

[wallyLOZ]

I've used Butch's Bore Shine for years. As @MadTrapper said, clean the bore and brushes afterwards. I use brake cleaner on the barrel followed with Rem Oil for short term storage or Ballistol for "normal" use and Synco Super Lube for longer protection. Not the cheapest, but works for me. YMMV.

P.S. The manufacturer of Butch's recommends outdoor use only due to the fumes. Brake cleaner should always be used outside. IMHO

 

[RedLion]

Opinions on using a copper remover vary. I use it. I like "Shooter's Choice" and "Bore Tech Inc Cu+2 Copper Remover." A good number of folks including myself use it when breaking in a barrel. The thought by many is that you accumulate a lot of copper when breaking in a barrel and removing it during the process quickens break-in while trying to ensure the best accuracy from that particular barrel/rifle. I use it every other time I shoot a rifle at the range. If you ever have a rifle that starts to lose accuracy, accumulation of copper could be the culprit and removing it could restore accuracy.

 

[Smitty901]

Lot of products that work not sold on brand. I am not an over cleaner Colt claimed more damage done by over cleaning than shooting. Slip 2000 Carbon killer also cleans lead and plastic from the bore Birchwoo Bore Scrubber 2 in 1 Copper & nitro cleaner seems to work. Follow by CLP.

 

[Mad Trapper]

Lot of products that work not sold on brand. I am not an over cleaner Colt claimed more damage done by over cleaning than shooting. Slip 2000 Carbon killer also cleans lead and plastic from the bore Birchwoo Bore Scrubber 2 in 1 Copper & nitro cleaner seems to work. Follow by CLP.

You need quality cleaning equipment to avoid damage. A 12ga shell with primer removed works great for a bore guide on M14/M1A, good to keep rifling at muzzle sharp. Steel cleaning rods are harder, but they won't embed crap like aluminum does. If my guns are going to sit any time or it's humid they get cleaned same day.

My BP MLs get cleaned if only 1 shot.

Concerning copper, I rescued a pre-64 M70 that took two weeks of cleaning, it shoots MOA now. Favorite deer rifle with a Denver Redfield on top or Lyman peep.

 

[rice paddy daddy]

i use Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner, mainly because it's available out here in small town America.
Removes lead, copper, carbon.

I also use Hoppes #9 on my milsurp rifles, it's equal to the old USGI bore cleaner, and a definite must if firing corrosive surplus ammo.

Such as the 1954 Bulgarian 7.62X54R I have a thousand rounds of.:tango_face_grin:

 

[rice paddy daddy]

I've used Butch's Bore Shine for years. As @MadTrapper said, clean the bore and brushes afterwards. I use brake cleaner on the barrel followed with Rem Oil for short term storage or Ballistol for "normal" use and Synco Super Lube for longer protection. Not the cheapest, but works for me. YMMV.

P.S. The manufacturer of Butch's recommends outdoor use only due to the fumes. Brake cleaner should always be used outside. IMHO

Brake cleaner will remove oil that is in the microscopic pores of the steel.
Better to use carb & choke cleaner.

 

[Smitty901]

i use Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner, mainly because it's available out here in small town America.
Removes lead, copper, carbon.

I also use Hoppes #9 on my milsurp rifles, it's equal to the old USGI bore cleaner, and a definite must if firing corrosive surplus ammo.

Such as the 1954 Bulgarian 7.62X54R I have a thousand rounds of.:tango_face_grin:

Best thing for cleaning corrosive power is soap and water first. Dry then clean

 

[Dukers]

Back in the day when I shot 600yd and the occasional 1000yd on the rifle team, we used a product called Sweets to remove copper I've seen it in my local range recently so they must still make it. It smelled to high heaven, but worked wonders on copper. Just make sure to follow the instructions.