[BugOutBob]

With evidence that canned goods last 20+ years, if one has the means, wouldn't a stash of canned goods be the easiest way to horde food for an apocolypse?

 

[WVTactics]

Well.... in some situations yes. Not all canned foods will last close to 20+ years. Some... ehhh I could see but not that many. The best thing is to use your preps. Rotate them in and out. Keep them in a very organized manner that is easy for you and your family to use the closest dates first. Then make sure they are in an easy spot that can be accessible during a SHTF scenario. If you can't get to it in a short amount of time it wasn't worth stockpiling. And another good hint would be to store most at your BOL (Bug Out Location) if you have one. If you need anymore questions answered add me on Skype: WVTactics. We can chat about things sometimes. Good luck.

 

[shotlady]

yep! what he said.

 

[Apocalypse]

Twinkies. ^_^

 

[shotlady]

mmmnnn twinkies in a can

 

[Denton]

You two just turned my stomach. Thanks. :|

 

[Apocalypse]

mmmnnn twinkies in a can

They'll last forever! Never underestimate a twinkie. They last longer than a McDonalds preservative packed burger anyday!

 

[WVprepper]

Canned goods are always good, because most of them you can eat out of the can. You should also consider a supply of long term storage items such as freeze dried foods.

 

[WoadWarrior]

I think the problem with canned goods is that they are metal and the seals can deteriorate. Example: I was cleaning out the pantry about a month ago and ran into a couple of cans I had hoarded away that were only available in the state I moved from a few years back (a local product). I'd completely forgotten about them... and 5 years on... the cans looked just fine. I opened one... and immediately threw it away... although there was no sign from the outside... the inside had dried out somewhat and it no longer looked like food. I guess my point is that cans may not remain as airtight as we could wish over time. Or maybe it was just poor can production from this smaller company. I've had the same problem with MREs. I've opened older packages and had dried out tabasco, crackers, chocolate, etc. At that point... I had to question the quality of the sealed food packets. Luckily for me, I could afford to just toss them and purchase new ones... but in a SHTF situation.... you eat what you've got... so dependable food items (whether cans, freeze dried, or MREs) have got to be regularly rotated to ensure you have the best chance at edible food when the time comes.

 

[SurvivingTheDoom]

I do agree with WVTactics on this 100%. However, a lot of bacteria that can cause illness and such is not from the amount of time it is canned for. Alot of it has to do with what is seeping into the canned goods from the material that it is being housed in. For instance, in a jar, would be better then in a tin can. In plastic is something I wouldn't attempt. After sitting for so long, the chemicals in the tin, or plastic will heat up and cool down repeatedly causing the compound agents to expand, and they have no where else to go other then into the food. I.E. Your eating plastic. Another safety tip, if canned food in a tin can is all you have, eat it with a plastic fork, not metal. Metal against metal can cause extreme illnesses, maybe even death. Also, instead of storing your water in plastic, try glass jugs. Save old liquor bottles, and reseal them with water. Old milk jugs are great for this because you can can water just like you can can food. Boil all water and let cool before drinking.

 

[BugOutBob]

Freeze Dried foods look best from the research I've done. They are advertised to last 20+ years without the need to rotate.

Of course food isn't my only issue. I live in the "suburbs", a few blocks inside the Baltimore Beltway. As such I am pretty close to what I believe would be a main thoroughfare when the city folks flee Baltimore City. at least temporarily

I can't afford to buy a 2nd home out in the sticks, and even if I could I might not be able to get there if there's an EMP and everything stops working. I will need to Bug-In, at least temporarily.

Being new to prepping, I have much to do.

 

[ohioguy]

tuna or canned chicken is always good to eat whenever.just have to open the can and drain the water. has a decent shelf life to and they are pretty cheap. 55 cents for great value

 

[jmh033089]

Freeze Dried foods look best from the research I've done. They are advertised to last 20+ years without the need to rotate.

Of course food isn't my only issue. I live in the "suburbs", a few blocks inside the Baltimore Beltway. As such I am pretty close to what I believe would be a main thoroughfare when the city folks flee Baltimore City. at least temporarily

I can't afford to buy a 2nd home out in the sticks, and even if I could I might not be able to get there if there's an EMP and everything stops working. I will need to Bug-In, at least temporarily.

Being new to prepping, I have much to do.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought EMP only affects when the car would be on.

 

[WoadWarrior]

EMP is a generic term that we tend to apply universally and always assume the worst with. EMP can come from many sources. I think what is being discussed above is EMP as the result of a nuclear blast. A side affect of said blast would be a huge electrical surge that can destroy most electronics, depending on many factors.... strength of surge, proximity to original source, quality of electronics, etc. Most preppers assume that newer cars, which are extensively controlled by electronics, will not survive the blast. The issue is not a short term suspension of electrical function, but an overload of electrical components causing enough damage to prevent continued function. That being said... you could buy older vehicles with fewer electronics... buy some spares and try to store them in a more protected manner, and then replace them once the pulse has passed. Theoretically, you would be up and driving again depending on your level of skill. This can even be done with newer cars if you can strip off all of the crap that was introduced by federal regulation. The motor and drive train should be fine.... it's all of the computer modules that would be affected.

So... I'd suggest a few days of research on the internet to learn everything you can... and maybe invest in a car without a computer... that you could get running quickly.

Keep in mind that in most cases where previous tests have shown EMP to be most effective... is right near a blast, or... further away when they were high altitude blasts. Longer distance effects were still noted... but not with the same significant amount of damage. I assume you will next ask whether we expect high or low altitude blasts. Well... that depends on what the bad guys are trying to accomplish. A High Altitude Blast (HAB) will knock out infrastructure over a larger distance... thus providing our enemy a place to invade and take over and re-start the infrastructure for their use. HABs minimize fallout as well. A Low Altitude Blast (LAB) will entirely destroy said target, will generate tons of fallout as the blast sucks up dirt and debris, but will minimize the EMP. Of course, if you survive a LAB, EMP is the least of your concern as you are probably being cooked alive from the inside.

One other thing... most nuclear-capable countries have experimented with EMP devices... bombs whose sole purpose is to knock out enemy capability without destroying the underlying infrastructure. If those types of weapons are deployed against us... you have two options... run and hide cause they are coming after you, but if they do... you'll be running and hiding the rest of your life... or try to organize the population towards defense of their property and hope you are ready in time.