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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally started down the path of having a .308 rifle.
I won't make any claims about what it will be able to do just yet, but I'll explain what my intent is.

A few months back, a member started a thread to get insight into the board's options for rifle and sidearm pairings. In my response, I mentioned that I didn't have a good rifle for standard military engagement ranges of 300+ yards. Yes, my 5.56 could do it, but that round is so weak, it should really be kept in the sub-300 world. My Blackout is even less effective at that range due to the barrel length and heavier bullet inside an even shorter case than the 5.56. Neither of those guns is intended for range. They are for "hi, how are you, get out of my house/off my land" ranges.
I have no current expectation of ever needing to reach a target beyond these ranges in order to save my life... but neither did the civilians in Ukraine until about a year ago.
So I plan to rectify this. Any comments about fantasy and paranoia can be directed to the round file, not this thread. Thanks.

Intent:
The purpose for this rifle will be a medium to long range heavy hitter that is maneuverable and not overly cumbersome to carry.
Think somewhere between an AR-15 and a DMR. It will eventually get a variable optic scope, but is NOT intended for long range precision. No bipod. Potentially suppressed.
The same silencer I use for my .300 is rated for .308 full-auto and more. I have no expectations that it will actually suppress the round much, but it will likely find its way onto the gun from time to time for flash suppression and to alter the recoil impulse. When Texas finally gets the greenlight for "Made in Texas" silencers, I'll see about getting a more suitable one.

Concern:
What I've come to realize, however, is that my chosen platform (an AR-patterned .308) is not as standardized as its little brother, the AR-15.
I'm looking for insights from folks who've done these types of builds on AR-308s, and would like to know what you learned, what you wish you'd known beforehand, and any tips for assembly or part choosing that I should be aware of.
The foundation of this rifle will be the Palmetto State Armory "PA10" stripped lower receiver. I'm especially interested to hear from anyone who's used this exact receiver in their own build, as there seems to be some strong recommendations to stick with other PSA parts when using this one.
I will likely pair it with a PSA upper to ensure fitment of the two halves, but beyond that, I don't really have a solid plan for moving forward.
This pairing follows the DPMS style, and not the Armalite style, so that may play a role in parts compatibility.

Caliber:
I think I've settled on a caliber. I know the AR-10/308 platform can work with many calibers, like the AR-15, but I think .308 Winchester is what I'm going with.
I looked into the differences in a .308 vs a 7.62NATO chamber, and it looks like the .308 is built for higher pressures and modern chambers can handle the NATO variant without much risk. The reverse isn't necessarily true due to thinner walled cases and greater expansion of the .308 in a NATO chamber, but also likely low risk.
Unless there is a compelling reason for going with a different caliber, .308 WIN is my top choice at the moment.

Barrel:
I am leaning toward an 18" barrel. This seems to be a decent compromise between maneuverability and maintaining a long enough barrel to nearly fully burn the powder of this round.
I have a medium contour profile on my 5.56, and would likely stick with that for the .308, understanding that the weight will be noticeably different.
Any suggestions or concerns about this or other barrel lengths?

Receiver parts kits:
For the lower, I have learned that most of the parts are identical to an AR-15 lower parts kit, except for the takedown pins, the bolt catch, and the magazine release. If this sounds wrong, speak up.
I have no information on upper parts kits. Are they standard?

Bolt carrier group:
These seem to range quite a bit in length and bulk.
The PA10 receivers are supposed to be closely mimicking the DPMS pattern. Is there a good way to know what BCGs will fit without having the two parts in hand and trying them?

Buffer system:
Based on the BCG and chosen receiver extension, the buffer system can also vary greatly. I've seen some systems which utilize a normal carbine length spring and carbine buffer. I've seen some that use a short buffer and carbine spring. And then there's the rifle length springs with carbine buffers. Lots of options, not sure what each combination offers.

What else should I be thinking about while planning out this build?
I'm giving myself the rest of the year to complete it, so I plan to spread out the cost and go with good quality components.
All suggestions are welcome.
 

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They, (AR-10 Platform) are "all" heavy. We have both 7.62 NATO and .308 Win.

Just my opinion, I like the longest barreled one's we have the best. Thinking if it is going to be heavy, it might as well reach out better. I am big on ultra-high-quality triggers like (DMR) from "Geissele".

I feel the complete uppers and/or lowers built by PSA are good quality. And they stand behind fixing any issues.
 

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The .308 Winchester is an excellent choice.
I can't comment on your actual rifle, as my platform is the Springfield Armory M1A. At one time my issue weapon was the M14 so I am very familiar with this rifle.

As far as chamber pressures, the .308/7.62 is backwards from .223/5.56. The 7.62 NATO is a lower pressure round.
If I were you, I would study optimum barrel length for full potential of the round.


Good luck, and keep us up to date.
(Don't forget the bayonet lug. In case your position is being over run, your rifle is empty, and you don't have time to change the magazine :cool: )
 

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Might I suggest a Sig Sauer Cross. Yes it's a bolt rifle. I've had several AR-10's and still have 2. After getting the Cross I've been slowly selling the AR-10's off.

The Sig is tack driver accurate and AR's not so much. Would rather have a lighter and smaller rifle that is supper accurate then a heavy bullet hose. With the folding stock and short barrel it rides in a back pack really nice. Deploys quickly and is lite weight. Just an option.
 

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You can't go wrong if you start with all PSA parts. Just make sure the barrel is marked .308 and not 7.62

I wouldn't overthink it too much, this probably isn't going to be your one and only AR-10. Start with run of the mill PSA parts to get it working then upgrade the stuff you think needs upgrading. ...save your old parts to start building the next one (gun parts are like sourdough bread starter 🤣)

You can't beat the price you found for the lower, you can't CNC an 80% lower for that price.
 

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Might I suggest a Sig Sauer Cross. Yes it's a bolt rifle. I've had several AR-10's and still have 2. After getting the Cross I've been slowly selling the AR-10's off.

The Sig is tack driver accurate and AR's not so much. Would rather have a lighter and smaller rifle that is supper accurate then a heavy bullet hose. With the folding stock and short barrel it rides in a back pack really nice. Deploys quickly and is lite weight. Just an option.
[/QUOTE

Sig is just recycling their garbage ideas from years ago with little improvement and the cult following has claimed it has withstood the test of time. The Cross' are being recalled ( it's a Sig of course it is ). Anyone looking into one would be better off with a Savage Axis. The 277 is only being developed to defeat level 4 plates and in case no one has noticed we're the most prevalent level 4 users. They're a shady company morally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Small update:

Been asking anybody I can find questions about building 308 ARs. Found two excellent in-person resources. One guy works for CMC Triggers full time, and behind the gun bar at Academy. He's the kind of guy that really likes talking about guns, and has built numerous ARs of both the "15" and "10" variety.
Also got to talk to the owner of the gun shop I picked to receive my lower receiver. He's a member at my church and been a gunsmith for 40 years. He too has seen more 308 ARs than he can remember.
Both of them offered awesome advice. I'm gaining confidence in the build and have two good folks to talk to if I hit a problem. They've both mentioned things to be mindful of and cleared up some confusion.

Aside from that, the CMC guy reminded me of the local gun show being in town, so I headed up there with my daughter.
Found an aluminum upper receiver block for the build, a stock well built for high recoil, and a 15⁰ grip.

Vice block:

Stock:

Grip:

Got my eye on a Strike Industries lower parts kit.
Still no idea on a barrel. 18" is the length I'm sticking with, but nitride, bead blasted stainless, something else... mid-length or rifle-length... These are the things that keep a man up at night. :D

No plans for which handguard yet. Muzzle device will be a Dead Air "Keymo" compensator for affixing a silencer.
CMC guy strongly recommended a nickel-boron BCG, and of course, a CMC trigger. :p
 

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Still no idea on a barrel. 18" is the length I'm sticking with,
Do your reloading tables give you a breakdown on barrel length vs. muzzle velocity? If so, are you happy with the numbers?

I'm just thinking about my 10" AR pistols: they belch out an awesome fireball of terrifying hell on earth but it's just powder going to waist burning after it leaves the barrel. It looks cool but the muzzle velocity is crap. ...but that doesn't make me love them any less
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do your reloading tables give you a breakdown on barrel length vs. muzzle velocity? If so, are you happy with the numbers?

I'm just thinking about my 10" AR pistols: they belch out an awesome fireball of terrifying hell on earth but it's just powder going to waist burning after it leaves the barrel. It looks cool but the muzzle velocity is crap. ...but that doesn't make me love them any less
The Lyman and Hornady reloading manuals I have state they used a 24" and a 22" barrel respectively. No comparisons given to other lengths.

Picked up two Strike Industries parts today.
LPK (no trigger, hammer, or disconnector, as these were already expected to be a separate buy):

Endplate and castle nut (black version):

I already have a spare receiver extension, so no problem there.
Just need to decide what to put inside it. I'm thinking of going with a buffer and captured spring combo system. Either that, or an Odin Works adjustable buffer and a decent braided spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Anyone have any recent personal experience with "Ballistic Advantage" barrels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lower now in hand.
I can't find the supposed "blemish" that reduced the price of this thing. Yet again, PSA comes through with an excellent product at a great price.

LPK and end plate/castle nut should be here in a few days.
The lower should be complete (except for trigger group, buffer, and buffer spring) within a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
They are good barrels, I've had a couple , but I sold them on arfcom. Still have one hooked up to a A2 receiver
Good to hear, because I got impatient with a sale price and already ordered one, HA! :ROFLMAO:

B. King's Firearms had an 18" stainless bead blasted heavy contour "Premium Series" with rifle length gas on sale for $123 + $11 shipping and no tax.

How could I possibly pass that up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Price was decent, and OP had a 10% off code, along with the $2 I got from a previous purchase, so I picked up a captured buffer.
Armaspec C Sound Mitigation Gen3 Buffer

Seems cheap, might be a good way to see if I like the concept or not.
Anyone have any experience with this type?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looking for help...
There's a unicorn out there somewhere, and I need help finding it.
I'm trying to find just the right handguard. But the things I want are either found in the wrong size, the wrong configuration, or $300+.

Criteria I'm looking for:
Profile: DPMS "low" profile
Length: 16-17"
Style: "split-rail" (not a monolithic top picatinny rail), not "slimline" to allow for an adjustable gas block (most slims require a fixed micro block)
Color: Black
Attachment system: M-Lok
Handguard material: aluminum
Barrel nut material: steel
Optional, but desired: anti-rotation tabs

I've checked all my normal sites. Primary Arms, Palmetto, Midway, Optics Planet, Brownells, and even specific manufacturers that return from a web search.
Closest I can find is this, but I think it's polymer with an aluminum barrel nut:

All suggestions are welcome.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lower receiver parts have been assembled.
Still lacking the buffer assembly (on order) and the fire control group (identified, but not ordered).
It went together surprisingly well. I REALLY like the Strike Industries kit.
I had everything except the bolt catch completed a few nights ago, but I didn't have a good way to punch the roll pin for the bolt catch.
Picked up a Real Avid hammer and punch tool kit I'd been wanting but could never quite justify, because it had the exact punch and roll pin holder I needed for this install.
Had that job done in two minutes. That roll pin holder made it so simple.

The upper radius of the Strike Industries end plate/castle nut does not mesh perfectly with the rear of the lower, but it's not anything that will cause issues. The reason could be that it's spec'd for an AR-15 lower, and perhaps the dimensions are a bit different from the DPMS 308 style rear. I've not checked.
However, the end plate engagement is SOLID! The buffer tube threaded in perfectly to butt the end plate to the rear of the lower, with a pressure fit. Hard to explain, but it had to be forced in, and I really like how rigid it feels. Cinched up the castle nut and it looks great.

Main things I'm still working out is handguard, and once that's known, adjustable gas block.
As mentioned, I'll be paring the lower to a PSA complete upper (sans barrel) to ensure compatibility, just waiting to see if it goes on sale.
I'm not opposed to assembling a stripped upper, but the page for their only stripped upper doesn't appear to have been updated in a long time since selling out. Not sure they still offer it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I may have settled on a handguard.

Took hours upon hours to zero in on a solution which is both well-made from a reputable company, and that would fit my budget, but I think I found it.
The 17.5" ODIN Works "O2 Lite M-LOK" handguard is machined from 6005-T651 aluminum, nobody seems to know if the barrel nut is steel or aluminum, is a split rail design, and is lacking anti-rotation tabs.
It's a decent compromise since nobody seems to have one with the exact specs I want.
With an inner diameter of 1.75", the extra length will not affect my ability to attach my silencer if it overhangs the muzzle adapter a bit.
I'm finding it available for anywhere between $190 and $225.
The variance is largely due to the fact that there are two size options. One for a 2.00" profile, and one for a 2.06" profile. Before committing to one or the other, I'm going to wait until I have the PSA upper in hand, and can confirm, since everybody just uses the "low" or "high" terms, and nobody has provided the real specs.
This rail's light weight, reportedly between 8 and 10 ounces (depending on which description you find), should help to compensate for the heavy profile barrel's weight.

This guard should allow for the use of an Aero Precision 15 setting adjustable gas block too.
 
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