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Static-Bags are actually "Anti Static Bags." They are a soft plastic bag that you usually get electronics in. They are either a light pink or silvery metallic looking bag. As thin as they are, they work GREAT - as long as there is no hole. A tiny pinhole can render them useless.

Amazon.com: Antistatic Bags, Resealable, 6X10, 10 Pack: Computers & Accessories

I would still line the ammo can with something non-conductive. The hardware stores sell truck bed lining in spray cans. It is pretty good stuff for a wide array of projects that have nothing to do with a truck bed.

RustOleum.com
 

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Static-Bags are actually "Anti Static Bags." They are a soft plastic bag that you usually get electronics in. They are either a light pink or silvery metallic looking bag. As thin as they are, they work GREAT - as long as there is no hole. A tiny pinhole can render them useless.

Amazon.com: Antistatic Bags, Resealable, 6X10, 10 Pack: Computers & Accessories

I would still line the ammo can with something non-conductive. The hardware stores sell truck bed lining in spray cans. It is pretty good stuff for a wide array of projects that have nothing to do with a truck bed.

RustOleum.com
I was thinking you'd want to insulate the item in the can from the can itself and started thinking about that rubberizing stuff you can dip screwdriver handles in to shield yourself from electricity. I'm sure that stuff can be painted on with a heavy duty brush, the spray bed liner would be a whole lot easier to use though. Rubberized undercoating might work also.

-Infidel
 

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Looks like that big old ugly mortar round can I got off Ebay last year will get some service now.

It was a lark buy, . . . saw it, . . . bid on it, . . . got it. Thanks to all of the good advice here, . . . it'll get put in service, . . . hoping I never have to rely on it.

May God bless,
Dwight
 

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I have made several, just line the inside with heavy cardboard. I used a refrigerator box, cut to fit the insides and top. I put a piece of 550 cord through the top so when you put it in, all you have to do is pull the rope to remove it. Line the entire inside, bottom and top, (top has the 550 cord), so nothing can touch metal and your fine.
 

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Some of the best advice I got off this site was to test it by putting a cell phone in it and calling it. If the cell phone rings, it is not good enough. If the cell phone does not ring, It MIGHT be good enough. Following that advice, we made our EMP protector, did our tests, and once they succeeded went three steps further. The rest is in God's hands now.
 

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From the US Military Packaging Division...

A continuously sealed metal barrier has proven to be very effective in preventing EM/HPM energy from reaching susceptible electronic or explosive components. Exterior packaging fabricated from plastic, wood or other fibre materials provides almost no protection form EM/HPM (electro-magnetic (pulse) and high power microwave) threats. The metal enclosure can be very thin provided there are no openings (tears, pin holes, doors, incomplete seams) that would allow microwaves to enter. Sealed barrier bags that incorporate a thin layer of aluminum foil and are primarily used to provide water vapor proof protection to an item, can add a great deal of resistance to EM/HPM penetration.

A number of cylindrical and rectangular steel containers have been developed by the Packaging Division for a wide range of munitions, weapon systems and associated components. The cylindrical containers are end opening and the rectangular containers are top opening. All the containers have synthetic rubber gaskets that allow them to maintain a +3 psi environmental seal to the outside environment. The containers are constructed using seam welding to provide for continuous metal contact on all surfaces of the body assembly. The cover openings have been held to a minimum and the sealing gaskets positioned in a manner to allow overlapping metal parts to add additional protection to these areas. Microwaves are very adept at bouncing around and working their way into even the smallest opening. Tests of the cylindrical and rectangular steel containers used by this organization have demonstrated a high level of protection in preventing EM/HPM energy from entering the container.

The key is to use a metal enclosure and eliminate or minimize any openings. Where openings are needed they should be surrounded to the greatest extent possible by continuous metal and in the case of a gasket, metal sheathing or mesh can be placed around the elastomer material or conductive metal molded into the gasket. The closer the surrounding container comes to a continuous metal skin the more protection that will be provided.

Source: http://standeyo.com/News_Files/NBC/EMP.protection.html
Note: In the original on the site, several words were spelled wonky, like vapour, aluminium, and so on. This information obviously wasn't cut/pasted from any us manual. It might have been copied manually, then again, it could be made up. I can't track down the original document, nor can I locate any such unit. I wouldn't expect any military unit to call itself the "US Military" anything, they would tend to say US Army, US Navy, DOD, etc. but who knows, maybe that bit was lost in transcription too.
 

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Ammo cans are not good against E-1 pulses for two reasons. They are painted steel which is a bad thing and they do not have a continuous mtal cover. There is a large gap where the gasket is and that is more than enough room to let the E-1 pulse in to destroy your electronics. If you use ammo cans I would suggest that you remove the paint, insulate the outside too, and then wrap in several layers of heavy aluminum foil with lap-folded seems with insulation between each layer.
 
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