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Reloading tips for the newbie

This is a discussion on Reloading tips for the newbie within the Reloading forums, part of the HandGuns, Pistols and Revolvers, Long Rifles, Shotguns, SKS, AK, AR category; Another question... Do folks try to look for a multi-use powder that works for their different calibers, or not worry about it and diversify? That ...

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Thread: Reloading tips for the newbie

  1. #21
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    Another question...
    Do folks try to look for a multi-use powder that works for their different calibers, or not worry about it and diversify?
    That Hodgdon site showed a powder that can be used for .223REM as well as the 300 load, H4198 if I recall. Is it advised to limit powder selection if it can work for multiple loads, or not put all your eggs in one basket?

    And another question...
    Is it advisable to weight check each round after finishing? Would this reveal any over/under charges to a noticeable degree to be valuable? The whole operation seems precise, so they should all be within hundredths of each other, right?
    Last edited by Kauboy; 06-09-2020 at 09:04 PM.
    "Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." - H. L. Mencken

  2. #22
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    I finally get to provide my own tip!

    If anyone ever gets the same Lee Anniversary kit that I did, or at least the press that comes in it, know that the Hornady "Lock-n-Load" conversion kit is NOT compatible with it.
    It is compatible with other Lee presses, but not this particular one.
    "Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." - H. L. Mencken

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kauboy View Post
    I'm glad you mentioned weighing every charge. That seems like the only way to be sure. A lot of manuals say to just run your powder measure a number of times until it's consistent, and you're good, but that seems like it would be risky. I know some folks recheck every so many rounds, but if the recheck shows wrong, you have to pull bullets on every round you made since last check. Bleh...

    Is there any time saved, or is it perhaps dangerous, to pre-measure and weigh each charge before you start dropping them in cases? Like 50 tiny cups you verify before you start pouring any in.
    Maybe thay doesn't save any time, but it would give me a visual triple-check.
    Would this be a bad idea, waste of time, or does anyone do this?
    Being a lazy boy and starting with the cheap Lee loader without a press..I grew fond of dipping the poder out by the dipper full. Saves a bunch of time. Got a press later and loaded for .223 22.250...357 mag and .38 spec. Never fell out of love with the ball powders. Would weigh a dipper full occaionally but it was always on the money. Reloading is mind numbing repetitious hobby sorta like rolling cigarettes. It drove me crazy..but was doing some comp target shooting and it burned up too much ammo to buy it premade. Loading for a .300 BO should be easier than falling off a log. They about like a thutty thutty ballistically. Now if its semi auto that are picky on the cases. Loaded a bunch of .223 for my mini 14 which suprisingly they all worked ok. lol. You tried the Euless Gun Shop. They have a bunch of stuff. May have powder.
    https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffnt&q=Eul...ss&iaxm=places

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigwheel View Post
    Being a lazy boy and starting with the cheap Lee loader without a press..I grew fond of dipping the poder out by the dipper full. Saves a bunch of time. Got a press later and loaded for .223 22.250...357 mag and .38 spec. Never fell out of love with the ball powders. Would weigh a dipper full occaionally but it was always on the money. Reloading is mind numbing repetitious hobby sorta like rolling cigarettes. It drove me crazy..but was doing some comp target shooting and it burned up too much ammo to buy it premade. Loading for a .300 BO should be easier than falling off a log. They about like a thutty thutty ballistically. Now if its semi auto that are picky on the cases. Loaded a bunch of .223 for my mini 14 which suprisingly they all worked ok. lol. You tried the Euless Gun Shop. They have a bunch of stuff. May have powder.
    https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffnt&q=Eul...ss&iaxm=places
    Driven passed it numerous times, but they were always closed. Never have stopped in.
    I may head up to Cabela's in the near future to see if they have more on hand. It's probably where everybody in DFW goes, so pickin's might be just as slim.
    "Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." - H. L. Mencken

  6. #25
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    @Kauboy . I try to use as few powders as possible. Carefully research the charactistics of each powder and if you can find one that works well for multiple calibers, you have a winner. Some people try to load their cases relatively full of powder so they will base their selection on that. Some powders are good in very cold temperatures. Some folks try to be economical so they buy whatever does the job with the smallest powder charge. Depends on what you consider important. I just try to find an easy metering powder that’s middle-of-the-road appropriate for my caliber that will give me my desired velocity without loading to max charge. If you are loading for extreme accuracy or very long distance, then all bets are off and you will be on the eternal search for the perfect powder.

    Weighing each cartridge after loading may give you a loose ball-park idea about your bullets. But consider, there will be variations in each case weight and maybe big variations if you are reloading cases from different manufacturers so finish weight really isn’t a good measure for much of anything.

    If you are worried about double charges of powder, many guys choose a powder that would overflow the case if double charged. Hope this helps!
    Kauboy likes this.

  7. #26
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    One more thing! When the last ammo drought hit reloading supplies became hard to find. I experimented a bit with different powders so I had alternatives available if I couldn’t find my favorites. Maybe something to consider.
    Kauboy likes this.

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kauboy View Post
    Another question...
    Do folks try to look for a multi-use powder that works for their different calibers, or not worry about it and diversify?
    That Hodgdon site showed a powder that can be used for .223REM as well as the 300 load, H4198 if I recall. Is it advised to limit powder selection if it can work for multiple loads, or not put all your eggs in one basket?

    And another question...
    Is it advisable to weight check each round after finishing? Would this reveal any over/under charges to a noticeable degree to be valuable? The whole operation seems precise, so they should all be within hundredths of each other, right?
    Kauboy, I have a handful of powders. Each can be used for multiple cartridges. A few examples below:

    Win-231 can be used in all std pressure pistol calibers from 380ACP to 45ACP
    Win-296 is one go to for magnum handgun rounds or 300BLK supersonic loads
    RL-15 and IMR 4895 are both great for heavy 5.56 rounds, 308, 30-06 and probably a few others.

    To your last question, weighing completed cartridges tells you nothing. There is more variation in case and bullet weight than you would think. Several grains of variation is possible.
    Kauboy likes this.

  9. #28
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    The powder question often will come down to "what do you want to do?".

    Make ammo and go pop paper and pop cans, . . . you can diversify to your hearts content. There are some powders out there that work for pistol, shotgun, or rifle, . . . saves space on the shelf.

    You want to make one small hole in the target from 100 yds away, . . . do it today, tomorrow, and next week. Diversify, . . . simply because your bang stick will turn into liking one recipe more than the others, . . . and you will have to mess around until you find that recipe it likes.

    I had an old flat side Colt AR15 some 40+ years ago. It liked IMR 3031, . . . and IIRC it was 26.7 grains. It did not care for 26.5 . . . nor 26.9 . . . (may be the wrong weight, . . . was over 40 years ago) . . . one target I shot was 10 rounds in a ragged hole at 100 yds that you could cover with a quarter. None of the other recipes did that.

    As far as weighing the finished product, . . . it's for all tense and purposes a waste of time. The cases themselves will only be the identical same weight if you go ahead of time and sort them to be in lots of identical weights. Differences in the case weights will wreck your finish product weigh in process.

    Anyway, . . . have fun and be safe.

    OH, . . . one more kinda sorta tip, . . . if you begin to get headaches after reloading, . . . or during the process, . . . most of the time it will come from handling the powder. Get it on your hands and something leaks out of it that can give you a headache that will made a stallion kick the side out of the barn.

    May God bless,
    Dwight
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  10. #29
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    All good advice here. Not much to add except to emphasize weighing the powder constantly. Check and double check. Triple check.

    Also, I tend to make the first few loads at the bottom end of the recommendations then move up from there to get what I want. Depends on what you are loading for too.
    "Erosion of our rights just takes a few good men doing nothing"
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  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piratesailor View Post
    All good advice here. Not much to add except to emphasize weighing the powder constantly. Check and double check. Triple check.

    Also, I tend to make the first few loads at the bottom end of the recommendations then move up from there to get what I want. Depends on what you are loading for too.
    And don't trust a cheap Chi-Com $30 digital scale. Get a mechanical balance and some calibration weights. If you throw charges check them with the scale.

 

 
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