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Reloading tips for the newbie

This is a discussion on Reloading tips for the newbie within the Reloading forums, part of the HandGuns, Pistols and Revolvers, Long Rifles, Shotguns, SKS, AK, AR category; Best advice is take your time don't rush. Double or triple check all your work. Look online for loading info and pet loads. Will get ...

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Thread: Reloading tips for the newbie

  1. #11
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    Best advice is take your time don't rush. Double or triple check all your work.

    Look online for loading info and pet loads. Will get you started for the particular load or purpose your loading for. Several custom loads I run in my weapons aren't in the books or available as factory ammo. One of the main reasons I reload for accuracy. Money isn't the reason. Having my weapons perform they way I want is.

    Kind of a bad time to start as supplies are an issue. Read your manuals and decide what powder to look for and stock up on. I use Unique and H335 in most bulk pistol and rifle loads. May not be the best but manuals list loading info across many calibers. So I buy those in 8lb jugs. Of course I use other powders for pet projects like the 300 win and subsonic loading.

    Set up a bench or area dedicated to your work. So when you get frustrated and are making mistakes you can walk away. Don't sit there for hours, that's when you WILL have issues.

    Lastly ask questions don't assume anything. Most loaders are more then happy to help a new guy get started. It can be a dangerous hobby so be careful.

  2. #12
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    I looked into reloading myself some years back. Then I asked myself a couple of questions. Don't I already have more then enough to do and isn't easier to just buy what ammo I need? The answer to those two questions was yes. I gave up the idea of reloading myself.
    StratMaster and inceptor like this.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kauboy View Post
    I'm glad you mentioned weighing every charge. That seems like the only way to be sure. A lot of manuals say to just run your powder measure a number of times until it's consistent, and you're good, but that seems like it would be risky. I know some folks recheck every so many rounds, but if the recheck shows wrong, you have to pull bullets on every round you made since last check. Bleh...

    Is there any time saved, or is it perhaps dangerous, to pre-measure and weigh each charge before you start dropping them in cases? Like 50 tiny cups you verify before you start pouring any in.
    Maybe thay doesn't save any time, but it would give me a visual triple-check.
    Would this be a bad idea, waste of time, or does anyone do this?
    Kauboy, . . . forget the pre measure idea, . . . guaranteed to get little cups of powder dumped all over God's creation.

    Do ONE round at a time.

    Double check what you just did to that round.

    ESPECIALLY check the powder load, . . . no powder can be as dangerous as a double load. Also when you get done, . . . put all unused powder back in the can then, . . . there, . . . before you leave.

    Get one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/300-AAC-Bla...AAAOSwuVpcirVx after loading your rounds, . . . drop each one in the thing and look to see it hits flush to the bottom, . . . just like in the picture on Ebay. Then look to see not a bunch of it is protruding up above the other end. If both ends are flush, . . . your resizing worked right, . . . your crimp is right and your headspace should be good to go on the round.

    I would not reload a bottleneck cartridge without one.

    I use Hornady . . . RCBS . . . and Lee dies, . . . all seem to be good, . . . but Lee has THE factory crimp die I like the best.

    Again as others have said, . . . be careful, . . . take your time, . . . NO distractions.

    AND one final note, . . . if you shoot .45 ACP or .44 mag or .357 mag, . . . start out with one of those. Use a graphite case sizer and de-primer, . . . makes things go faster, . . . and you will get some easier and better foundational experience just doing them.

    Have fun, . . . may God bless,
    Dwight
    If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

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  5. #14
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    A couple more thoughts.

    Equipment. If you weigh each charge a powder tickler. A lube pad to roll cases in before sizing. I like the Lee case lube as you can wipe it off w/dry rag and don't don't need a solvent. When you start cleaning brass I prefer a sonocator rather than tumbler, as they are useful for cleaning many other things (Carburators). For sonocator solvent a vinegar:water:dish soap mixture works good and is cheap/non-toxic. A caliper to measure COL. Tool to clean inside case necks and lube them w/graphite powder.




    Have not done AR but have M1/M14 type reloads. Should be a service rifle section in reloading manual. Semis like different powders (burn rates). Besides military primers, need to be certain primers seat slightly below case base, many get by with regular primers. On a new batch of brass it is worth uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes. With the Lee hand primer, you will be able to feel the primers seat. Be wary of any brass that seats primers too easy or hard. I always trim and chamfer case necks.

    For COL on semis you are usually limited to what fits in magazine and feeds. You can check chamber throat with a dummy round without primer/powder to see how far a particular bullet needs to be seated without touching the rifling. Playing with COL is usually a fine tuning after you get a good accurate load already in hand, mostly with bolt actions.
    Last edited by Mad Trapper; 06-09-2020 at 07:08 AM.
    Kauboy likes this.

  6. #15
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    Cleaning brass use stainless pins and tumble.


  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by NewRiverGeorge View Post
    Lube....and lube again.

    Nothing worse than having a case stuck in your die.
    Then Mad Machinist Skills come in handy removing said stuck case.
    I use online loading info only from major powder companies
    NewRiverGeorge likes this.
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  8. #17
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    This is all great guys! Thank you very much.

    I was using the Hodgdon site to look up loads, and when searching for a 300 AAC Blackout load for a 220gr bullet, I noticed there was no Starting Load given. Only a Maximum.
    Is this normal, and does that mean anything I should be aware of?
    "Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." - H. L. Mencken

  9. #18
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    Go to accuratepowder.com
    There is a ton of info there on all things related to reloading. Scroll down to rifle reloading data and they will give you a range of their powders suitable for 300 blackout ranging from slowest burning to fastest. Pick one in the middle to start. Get a spherical powder for easy metering. Their load data gives both starting and max loads. Pay no attention to their stated velocity data as your velicities will be different because of barrel length and different gun.
    Kauboy likes this.

  10. #19
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    One rule . Follow the rules/instruction to the letter. No jacking loads up until you have the experience. Details madder.
    Chiefster23 and Kauboy like this.
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  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kauboy View Post
    This is all great guys! Thank you very much.

    I was using the Hodgdon site to look up loads, and when searching for a 300 AAC Blackout load for a 220gr bullet, I noticed there was no Starting Load given. Only a Maximum.
    Is this normal, and does that mean anything I should be aware of?
    Just reduce it 10% to start and work up unless it's H110 or W296 then look for more data because too much reduction can make boom. A couple tips from my experience.
    1. Don't load more than 10 rounds before you test them.
    2. You will get a case stuck, just buy the drill and tap, and have the washers ready.
    3. don't trust digital scales, at least not the cheap ones
    Last edited by jimb1972; 06-09-2020 at 02:03 PM.
    Kauboy likes this.
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