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The Glock Thread To End All Glock Threads
This is a discussion on The Glock Thread To End All Glock Threads within the Pistols and Revolvers forums, part of the HandGuns, Pistols and Revolvers, Long Rifles, Shotguns, SKS, AK, AR category; I wanted to do a thread series on Glocks, whether you are an old dirty dude who doesn’t like a weapon if it isn’t a ...
The Glock Thread To End All Glock Threads
I wanted to do a thread series on Glocks, whether you are an old dirty dude who doesn’t like a weapon if it isn’t a 1911 or have cylinders, or a new shooter who has acquired one or more of the ubiquitous firearms — this will serve as a guide to fully strip your Glock, areas of minor improvement and general information. As a background, I’m a “Glock certified armorer” (which is a stupid title, these things are super simple to take apart and understand), and I have put easily over 100K+ rounds through various Glocks both in the military, in competition and just for fun in the last 3 or 4 years. Either way — this is not a point of instruction, or something you paid for, you assume all risk by doing any work on your weapon.
This series is meant to cater to everyone — those who don’t have Glocks, those who have one and do not know how to fully strip it, maybe you’re thinking of a modification and do not know how to do it, or maybe you wanted to figure out how to get a better trigger than that mushy one that even the Gen 4s come stock with.
All reference material in this series are using my own weapons — one of is a Gen 4 Glock 17 that is pretty much stock, the modifications are Glock OEM parts except for the Connector (covered later on), and my wife’s Glock 43 which is heavily modified to include the barrel, magazine release, trigger assembly, etc. The Gen 4 Glock is considered a “3 pin” Glock, while the G43 — because of its size — is a “2 pin” Glock — if you have a Generation 1 or 2 Glock, some parts of this guide may not be applicable to you.
This is the most common thing to do with your Glock, just to cover all bases, here is a quick write up. Before starting any of this, ensure that you remove your magazine and your weapon is clear, if you are clumsy and having AR springs or firing pins under spring tension shoot out at you on a regular basis — you should probably also wear a face mask or at least eye protection. I am not responsible for any damage you cause to yourself, others, your weapons, your pets or your furniture — you assume all risk by listening to some dude’s advice on the internet!
To field strip your Glock first remove your magazine and ensure your weapon is cleared of any rounds in the chamber. Pull your slide back about a quarter/half way and pull down on the Slide Lock tabs that are exposed just in front of the trigger pins, above the trigger guard. The picture below will highlight that area and show the position of the slide. When you pull down on this tabs just release the slide, if you get it off all the way the slide will come off the frame — the jury is still out on why, but you will most likely need to pull your trigger to get it to come off. On the Glock 43 I can just pull it off without doing that.
After you remove the slide, pull up on the back of your Recoil Spring Assembly (RSA) that contacts the lug of your barrel and remove it — then lift your barrel up and back away and out of the slide — congratulations, you have just field stripped your Glock pistol, reward yourself with a shot of tequila! If you do not see this you are wrong!
Now, you have yourself a field stripped Glock — typically this is the furthest you need to take it down to clean your bore, wipe off carbon from the inside of the frame and the slide and lightly oil your weapon. However, if your Glock is old as mud (like you reading this) and has weak extraction, you are getting failures to fire with harder primers or you broke something — you will need to disassemble your slide. The only “tool” you will need is a 90 degree pick or a small 1/16” punch, you can also use any straight edge if you’d like but to avoid marring the plastic Firing Pin Sleeve, I would avoid using keys or a knife (I have done so).
As mentioned, to disassemble the remainder of your slide (Backplate, Firing Pin Assembly (FPA), Extractor, Extractor Depressor Plunger & Spring, Firing Pin Safety), you will need to press down on the Firing Pin Sleeve to remove the backplate from spring tension, the pictures below highlight the area you will press down on with you tool:
As you are pushing down on the Firing Pin Sleeve, you will need to press down on your Backplate to push it out of the back of the slide, ensure that you do this slow and keep pressure on the Backplate with your thumb, and pressure on the firing pin sleeve — the FPA and the Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring are under spring tension and will shoot out of the back, refer to the below picture:
This is what you will see when you are done with that task, provided you didn’t catapult your FPA into the Ozone Layer:
You can simply pull these two components out of the back of the Slide, the Extractor Depressor Plunger is in 2 pieces, the Spring with plastic tip and the actual rod that keeps the Extractor tensioned — make sure not to rough house it too bad. To remove the Extractor and Firing Pin Safety, refer to the picture below — the Blue area is your Plunger, just press down slightly and turn your slide over and the Extractor will fall out. The Plunger also has a small spring inside of it, take care not to rip it out or warp it:
This picture I took to show the inside of the Extractor groove within the Slide — carbon can build up in those crevices, so ensure that you give it a good cleaning and very lightly lube the inside — the weakest part of a Glock is the Extractor, keeping one or 2 on hand and ensuring it is free of brass shavings or carbon is a good PMCS practice
There you have it — your slide is totally stripped save for the sights (we will touch on that). Your Firing Pin Assembly (FPA) can be taken down further, but it is out of scope for this guide at the time being — essentially you will tension your spring, remove the spring cups (they are in 2 pieces) and remove the Striker, Striker Spring and the Sleeve and Cups. (For a tutorial see here: Glock Firing Pin Assembly & Disassembly Instructions)
The Firing Pin Spring can fail, so having a spare is in your best interest — some people lighten the Spring, which can lessen your trigger pull by a few ounces but puts you at risk to have a FTF on harder primers like Wolf, Tula, and NATO Primers. You can also put in a stronger spring to ensure positive ignition no matter what you feed, I have never had to do that — the anecdotal accounts are that it results in a smoother pull, the striker of a Glock is technically “half-cocked” so a stronger Striker spring with everything else stock may lead to FTRTB (Failure to Return to Battery) by a quarter inch or so — as that is the issue with using a light recoil spring and stock/heavy Striker Springs…while I do advocate doing a little bit of work to your Glock, it is very easy to “Fix it until it is broke” — Gaston designed the weapon purposely — which is why Titanium Strikers, reduced spring rates, etc are not really needed, it is why the angle of the firing pin is the way it is and why they are Locked Breech versus simple Blowback designs. Myself, I have never messed with any of the Springs in the Glock — but YMMV.
The continue our Slide disassembly journey, we come to the sights. The stock sights on a Glock are a point of contention for a lot of people for various reasons. Some argue that they are flimsy and will break apart in Combat/Duty use (can’t speak to that — every Glock in the SMU task force I was attached to had Steel Glock OEM Tritium night sights), some do not like how they are setup with the “Dot in the Basket” arrangement and prefer 3 dots, and some want Night Sights. Replacing the sights on your own is not hard, you just need the proper technique and tools to do so — some are more expensive than others, and you will eventually need to replace them anyway. Police trade-in Glocks usually have dim sights, you want to get away from plastic or you want Suppressor-heights to use with a Can or with your RMR, you can either send it to a Gunsmith or you can do it yourself.
Maryland Gun Works sells a really high quality Sight Pusher that will make removal of the Beavertail rear sight very easy (Maryland Gun Works Rear Sight Tool Glock) — note this only works with the “angled” Glock sights — and you will need an Adapter to use it on your Glock 42/43 (Maryland Gun Works Rear Sight Tool Glock 42 43 Adapter Kit) you can get setup for under $150 after shipping with the Pusher and the Adapter, these make adjusting the sights easy too.
Or…you can drift the sights out on your own, there are no set screws or detents holding in the rear sights on Glocks so hammering them out is not that hard. All you will need is a vice, a solid bench (or tow hitch adapter plate like I have) and a rod — I use a Micarta rod (https://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductD...oductCode=MR18) as it does not mar the sights and is very strong even under a carpenters hammer, if you do not have Micarta I would use Nylon, and if not Nylon a brass drift punch with some electrical tape on it…and the very last resort if you are lazy or impatient is a regular half-inch drift punch made of steel, picture for reference:
Using the Micarta rod, I set the slide at 90 degrees and just smashed the stock sight out, then knocked in a new rear sight — it is only about 10 minutes of work depending on how strong and coordinated you are — again PLEASE do not use brass/steel unless you absolutely must — Micarta has never gouged or marred my sights and you couldn’t tell the difference.
The front sights are a different story; they are just held in place by a 3/16ths inch hex screw and some Loctite, I use an inexpensive Brownells stainless steel front sight tool to remove it, if you have finger strength issues just clamp down with some trust linesmen pliers or a multitool’s pliers.
Messing with sights can a be a bit confusing — the stock rear sight heights on the Small Frame Glocks (9mm, 40SW, 357SIG, 45GAP and 380Auto [380 is for the 25/28 models only]) is 6.5mm while the Large Frame Glocks (10mm and .45ACP) use a 6.9mm rear sight — there are additional heights that can be used to include 6.1mm (used by Stock G42/G43), 6.9mm and 7.3mm which will shift your Point of Impact about 2 inches at 25 meters every 4 millimeters you adjust the rear sight on your Glock (6.1, 6.5, 6.9 and 7.3mm) (GLOCK)
The front sight height on the Small Frame Glocks is at 0.165 inches, with a stock 6.5mm (0.256”) on the small frame Glock (Glock G17 for example), that is a .091” difference — most stock sights will shoot POI/POA at 20-25m, of course there are a lot of factors into this but that is what Gaston thought was the Goldilocks Zone for 9x19 NATO loadings in the Glock — to take the guess work out of it just buy Stock OEM Night Sights or buy your sights in a set — my Glock 17 Gen 4 would shoot high so I replaced by front sight with a 0.215” Warren Sevigny Tritium front sight, there are also 0.245” Suppressor heights, you can tune your POI/POA by messing with the Front Sight but a 6.5mm and 0.165” pairing should be fine…the stock width is 0.115” — I have no professional opinion on using 0.125” width sights.
If you wanted to custom tune for competition purposes you can purchase some plain front sight blades (non-Fiber/Tritium) and file the top of it down until you get to where you want and then measure via calipers at that point to aid in your purchase decision.
The market is flooded now with sight makers, I have used Trijicon, Ameriglo, Warren and Glock OEM and none were any better than the others, the Warrens and Trijicon sights have some front inserts in different colors if you like contrast — but I’d save the $50 or 60 over Trijicons and feel comfortable with Glock OEM night sights, but it is a buyer’s market and plenty of designs out there to get.
The last thing is ensuring you apply Loctite to the front sight screw and let it cure, my Glock 17 Gen 4 front sight did not have any applied at all to it all and did not fly off, but the replacement screws are much more shallow and do not go all the way through the sight like the OEM front sight does, so there is that warning for you.
The next step to fully take down your Glock is dissembling your frame. Carbon and gunk can and will build up in your Trigger Mechanism, usually towards the rear, but your Locking Block and Trigger Shoe can also get jammed up with grit. There is also where most your modifications can be made to your weapon – whether it is the Connector, the entire Trigger Assembly, Trigger Spring or Magazine Release, they all will be replace here.
We will continue taking apart out Gen 4 Glock 17 frame (the Glock 43 comes later), there are 3 pins that hold the internals in, hence this style of Glock being called a “3 pin” Glock. From the attached photo below working from the Top Left highlighted in Blue is the Locking Block Pin (which also tensions your Magazine Release), the Trigger Housing Pin in red and the Trigger Pin (mistakenly referred to as the Back Strap Pin) in the rear.
You will start with removing the topmost pin, the Locking Block Pin, it will drive out with a moderate amount of force using a 1/8th inch punch, I typically work from Left to Right due to the way the Trigger Housing Pin is removed, but either direction is fine. Drive this pin out and then continue on, for reference look here:
The next Pin to be removed is the Trigger Housing Pin, the Trigger Housing Pin holds in your Trigger Assembly, the bottom of the Locking Block (the Locking Block Pin doesn’t go through it, just in the top notch) and the Slide Release. To remove the Trigger Housing Pin you will want to lift slightly up on the Magazine Release, about a third of the way, and slowly punch out the Pin – the correct orientation is shown in the below picture:
At this point you can pull the Slide Release towards the Grip of the pistol and remove it from you Glock. The stock Glock OEM Slide Release is a hot mess, I absolutely hate it, and opted for the OEM Glock extended release (they come stock on Long-Slide and Competition Glocks – 17L, 24, 34, 35, etc). Here is a picture showing the difference between the two, note the Magazine Release Spring, when you reinstall this you will want to ensure it rests underneath the Locking Block Pin:
You will now be able to lift the Locking Block out of place, you can usually just pull it up and out, but if you lack the grip strength, or if it is stuck in there by years of oil and carbon, just wedge it out with your punch, this would be a great time to polish any burrs out of it – while Glock does not like to admit it, the Locking Block is made from MIM (Metal Injected Molding) and may have burrs or gouges in it, I just polish it up for the sake of doing so either way:
The next, and final, pin you want to drive out is the Trigger Pin – it is called this because it holds the Trigger Mechanism Housing (the part that holds the Trigger Spring, Connector, the “crucifix” of the Trigger Bar and your Ejector) in place. In the Generation 4 Glock, this pin also holds the backstrap in place if you employ the usage of them – for those with small Trump hands like myself, I do not use any backstraps and have filed down the pin a little bit so it doesn’t protrude and cut the wedding of my hand (again)
Once you have driven these pins out, the last thing to do is the lift the Trigger Assembly up and out of the Frame, it does not matter which side you start on, just don’t pretend it is your wife and rough handle it and snap the Trigger Bar in half
Now that you have your Frame Disassembled (except for the Slide Lock, in retrospect I did not cover that, essentially you will depress the Slide Lock and “feed it out” (push it out) of the frame, Hyve Technologies and Lone Wolf make an extended Slide Lock to aid in field stripping – I have one on the Glock 43, and it does help for what it is worth. I cover the magazine release swapping/replacing in the Glock 43 section so do not worry about that – the steps are identical in both Glock styles.
To get the best trigger pull you will eventually want to replace your Connector, you will also need to learn to take the Trigger Assembly apart if you wanted to replace the Trigger Shoe, the Trigger Spring or the entire Trigger and Trigger Bar. The below picture will show the orientation as it comes out of your Frame, note, I have a Ghost 3.5 Connector in both of my Glocks and they stick out further than the stock OEM connector (I do not remember if the Glock OEM ‘Minus’ 4.5/3.5 Connectors stick out this far).
To remove the Trigger Bar you will want to move the “crucifix” of the Trigger Bar away from the Trigger Mechanism Housing and upwards, it will be under spring tension from the Trigger Spring – do not worry about stretching it, it will not break unless you treat it like you treat your wife!
Once you have pulled the Trigger Bar away from the Trigger Mechanism Housing you will need to unhook it from the Trigger Spring. You can finesse it out using your fingers or a pick if need be, I leave the Spring attached to the Housing just so I do not lose it unless I am replacing the Spring. As far as the Trigger Spring is concerned, a Heavier (6#) Trigger Spring lends “extra power” by pulling in the same direction as the Trigger Stroke. Since the Striker is half-cocked, the resistance you feel when Pulling the Trigger is fully cocking the Striker and then it releases, the Trigger Spring is pulling down towards the inside of the Frame while the Striker is traveling backwards then releasing when the Trigger Spring pulls down the Trigger Bar. In theory, a heavier Trigger Spring will lighten the perceived trigger pull by a few ounces – to further that assertion, some people use the NY1/NY2 (NYPD 12# IIRC) Trigger Springs with a ‘Minus’ or Ghost 3.5 Connector this gives a “revolver like” feel as it has pressure the full length of the pull – I have dry fired my brother’s NYPD Glock and it SUCKS, no sure how that even feels good with a light Connector.
The remove the Connector, there is a slot on the opposite side of the Trigger Housing Mechanism, in theory you can pull the Connector away, but it is thin metal and I do not feel like trying my luck, a small 1/16th inch punch or a pen tip will push it out easily enough
The show comparison to the Stock Glock Connector (it is not a ‘minus’ connector) and the Ghost 3.5 here is a side by side picture, the dimensions of the Ghost are slightly smaller than that of the stock Connector, and you can instantly feel the difference. I experimented with polishing the stock connector the lightly filing down the contact edges on the Glock 43 and could not get it similar (granted, the Glock 43 Ghost Edge has a much different profile), for $10, the Ghost is a no-brainer
That is how far I usually will take down a Glock, however, if you wanted to try a different Trigger Shoe, or wanted to shave pounds and pull angle off your Glock you can remove the Trigger Shoe from the Trigger Bar. It is held in by a blind pin, there are two methods to removing it, either of which is fine, but I prefer this first method:
The way I do it is take a punch smaller than the Trigger Shoe Pin and drive it inwards towards the “non-blind” side, keep doing this until you see an “indent” of the Pin on the opposite side and use that as your reference point. Once I see that reference point, I “dig” into the center of it using an Xacto Knife (#1 Precision Knife) until I can see the head of the pin, then drift it out using the smallest punch I have…the second method is just drill out the opposite end and drifting the Trigger Shoe Pin out, not the best method but there it is.
You are now free to test out different shoes, the price of Drop-In Glock Trigger Assemblies like the Hyve Technologies Monarch Trigger (I use in the Glock 43 which is amazing), the Zev Fulcrum, Agency Arms Trigger or the Overwatch “Combat Applications Trigger” (CAT) are all in the $100s, and go way up from there – the reason to use those other triggers is you can adjust for Travel – I have tested the Fulcrum, and use the travel adjustment on the Hyve – however, I maintain the same rule on adjusting travel on a 1911 trigger – no more than 0.015” (inches) away from the break, it will help preserve your Gonads if you draw from your waistband like a gangster.
You can also really get your trigger pull down to sub-2lbs, here is a great thread on the Brian Enos forums for that, I have only attempted it once, and it is not difficult, ensure you epoxy the new hole you left in your old shoe if you reuse it for this method: So You Want a Sub 2# Glock Trigger - Glock - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!
More “Trigger Job” Stuff
If you search around the internet you will see references to a “Hillbilly Trigger Job” or “Red Neck Trigger Job” or even “25 Cent Trigger Job” – essentially, you are just polishing the main contact points through the firing sequence in your Glock. Firing thousands of rounds will do it naturally, since Glock is now using MIM parts from various suppliers, you may have plating on your Glock trigger internals, or some form of coating, which will peel/sheer off as you fire your Plastic Fantastic and may gunk up your trigger.
Doing one of these “Poor Man’s Trigger” Jobs is essentially the same as doing the “Action Enhancement” that I did to my Sig Sauer P226 (and that Sig charges $200 for), it is not as difficult as that job, and definitely not as bad as changing the sear spring angle in your favorite 1911 and working that trigger pull – all you need for this is 1500 and 2000grit sandpaper, some light oil and Flitz with a foam applicator and a microfiber cloth – all can be had at Home Depot or Lowes for under $20 altogether.
The picture below will highlight the areas you will want to polish up, this well lessen a little bit of friction and probably take a few ounces and maybe a pound off a totally stock setup. I use cheapo Walmart “3-in-1” oil and lightly oil the surfaces and work them over with the 1500 grit, then get to the 2000 grit until it is nice and shiny. Apply a little bit of Flitz polish with a non-cotton applicator and vigorously polish in the direction of travel using the microfiber cloth – reapply as needed. After you are done very lightly lube the contact points (between the Connector and Trigger Bar, mostly). You can use this same method to polish up the feed ramp of the Glock as well – the Tenifer will get fouled up with copper (and especially lead) and may snag a round resulting in a FTF, I just start with 800grit then work up to 2000grit
As I have touched on, the Ghost 3.5 or Glock ‘Minus’ Connectors are what help shave pounds off your trigger pull, polishing the contact surfaces helps the general feel of the trigger pull. A quick recap on the other Springs: Don’t Change Them. I suppose the Extra Power 6lb Trigger Spring can help you out, but once you jump down that rabbit hole of swapping your Firing Pin Safety Spring, the Striker Springs and playing with Zev recoil assemblies you will mess something up. If you are shooting IDPA or USPSA Open do your thing – but for duty or CCW duty, Murphy’s Law is in full effect, so modify at your own risk. The only exception I have is for the recoil spring if you are wanting to Suppress or Compensate your Glock – changing the gassing and back pressure in a Locked Breech design will need to have custom tuned spring rates and ammo, however, if you are some wierdo that needs to compensate their full sized 9mm Glock – please just test fire it on genitals, since you will not be needing them anyway.
Now that you have taken apart your Glock, hopefully you did not lose any of those parts and you did not break anything by pretending your Trigger Bar was your wife and slapping it around. The first step (provided you did not remove your Trigger Spring) is to reinstall your Connector. It will properly orient on the Trigger Mechanism Housing via a groove, remember, if you used a Ghost or Ghost Edge 3.5 (probably the same for a ZevTech Race V4 Connector) it will stick out further away from the Housing than a stock Connector.
Re-hook your Trigger Spring to your Trigger Bar and reinstall the “crucifix” of the Trigger Bar, start from the top and back the Trigger Bar into the Housing like you are reversing a car (essentially the opposite from the uninstall) I do not have four arms and could not take a picture of the orientation so here is a picture of what it is supposed to look like if you did not jack it all up, the bottom picture (though grainy) shows how far that Ghost 3.5 protrudes
Next simply reinstall the whole Trigger Assembly, you should hear/feel a positive “click” when pressing the Trigger Housing Mechanism in at the rear due to your Connector snapping into place, then press the Trigger Shoe into the gap where it used to be at, below is a picture of what right looks like:
You will slide your Locking Block back into place over the Trigger Shoe next, it should go right in without any resistance, ensure the Trigger Shoe is fully installed
Reinstall your Trigger Pin (and backstrap if applicable)
Reinstall the Locking Block Pin first (it’s first out and first in, like a Pathfinder Lieutenant), it will push in easily, ensure positive engagement of the enlarged “nubs” of the Locking Block Pin:
Next slide your Slide Release towards the Locking Block assuring that 1) the Slide Release Spring is tensioned UNDERNEATH the Locking Block Pin and 2) that the hole lines up for the Trigger Housing Pin, the picture is grainy but the yellow highlighted area shows the top of the Slide Release Spring undeath the Trigger Housing Pin:
Continue to apply frontward pressure on the Magazine Release, unlike removing the Trigger Housing Spring, the Magazine Release just needs to be pushed forward and kept flush with the frame, there should not be any resistance reinstalled this Pin, ensure that the hole in the Magazine Release is lined up with the holes in the Frame and Locking Block and that both lugs on the Trigger Housing Pin are positively engaged
Your Frame is now fully assembled; the next part is to reassemble your Slide – you will work in reverse order from how you installed – so it will be Extractor, Firing Pin Safety, Extractor Depressor Plunger & Spring, Firing Pin Assembly and the Backplate. The first thing is placing the Extractor in and pulling it out until none of it is exposed inside the Firing Pin Safety channel, the below picture shows the correct orientation:
The next picture was extremely grainy so I did not place it, but you will place the Firing Pin Safety inside the channel and press it down while pushing in the Extractor, if you did this correctly is should not simply fall out, but you will need to place the Extractor Depressor Plunger & Spring in the Slide to hold it in place. After you did this, reinstall the Firing Pin Assembly and depress them using a punch or flat edge while replacing the Backplate – be mindful not to let your parts shoot out of the back of the Slide:
Now that you have your Frame fully assembled, all you must do is reinstall your Barrel and Recoil Spring Assembly (RSA). Before you do that, ensure that you properly lube your Glock – I have seen guys bathe their Tupperware Terror in CLP and you do not need to do that, lightly oiling the rails at the fore and aft of your slide as well as the Locking Block, I would also place some lube in the top hood of the Slide and the bottom of your barrel to avoid premature wear of the Tenifer finish, which is more aesthetic than anything else. The below picture shows the areas I am talking about (except the inside of the Slide, you should figure that one out)
And there you have it – you now know how to fully strip your Generation 4 Glock “3 pin” pistol, and properly modify, service, replace and lubricate your weapon. There are more modifications that can be done, some like to add Grip Plugs, Magwells, Magazine Extensions, Optics Mounts (Either Carver, C-More, or Beavertail mounted optics or even mill for a red dot) to their weapons as well as Threaded or Ported Barrels to lessen recoil – eventually I will expand this guide to cover all of those things, but what I covered is all I can definitely recommend in my professional opinion that remains unobtrusive and relatively cheap.
Glock 43 Disassembly
I will not cover the fully illustrated method of taking apart your Glock 42/43 as most of the steps remain largely the same. These smaller Pocket-Glocks return to a 2-pin design, with a lack of the Locking Block Pin, as the way the Slide Release is utilized is a bit different than from the other Glocks – hence the large lack of extended slide releases in the marketplace. I will start from removing the pins from the frame of your Glock – the full disassembly of the Slide is identical as is the removal of the sights, field stripping and tuning the Trigger pull (the Trigger Mechanism takes down slightly different)
After you have removed you Slide from your Glock 43 the first thing you will want to remove is the Trigger Housing Pin, which is held under tension by the Magazine Release, you will want to push the Magazine Release down towards the bottom of the frame, this picture highlights the Magazine Release Spring
You can use a punch or straight edge, I just use my finger, there should be little to no resistance driving the Pin out of the frame, if they is, you are not pushing down enough
After the Magazine Release and Trigger Housing Pin are removed, you will need to lift up on the Locking Block and pull it out of the frame the same as you would on any other Glock
Then drive out the Trigger Pin, it is much smaller than the Trigger Pin used in double-stack Glocks due to the lack of backstraps for the Glock 43:
Remove the Trigger Assembly as you would any other Glock, the makeup is mostly similar, with the only exception being the way that the Trigger Bar is held in the Trigger Mechanism Housing via a “clasp” that has the Trigger Spring
You remove it the same way by pulling up and out diagonally like you would any other Glock trigger bar, make sure to not bend the bar or snap that tab off
That is how you take apart the Trigger Mechanism in a Glock 43, reassembly will be in reverse, ensure that the tab of the Trigger Spring Assembly is resting on top of the Trigger Bar “crucifix” other than that, you can polish up the Trigger Bar and other engagement parts in the Glock the same exact way as described before, the Glock 43 has an extremely heavy trigger pull around 7 to 8 pounds’ stock, part of this is due to the variations in manufacturing, I am not sure of the Striker Spring weight in the Glock 43, but my internals had chipping plating before I polished it up, with a combination of the polish job, Hyve Monarch Trigger Assembly and a Ghost Edge 3.5 connector and polishing up all contact points I have about a 3 pound trigger with zero take up.
Here are some pictures showing the difference between a Glock OEM and Ghost Connector in the Glock 43, and the difference in profile between the Glock OEM Slide Release as well as the Extended Tango-Down Vickers Tactical Slide Release – the Vickers is essentially the same size as the OEM release, except it has a slightly elongated shelf to give your thumb some more purchase releasing the Slide to battery, the picture is pretty bad but there is no easy way to capture that – the Vickers Release is on the Right
On my Glock 43 I replaced the Magazine Release with a Hyve extended Magazine Release, it is made of aluminum versus plastic and sticks out instead of concaving inwards like the stock Gen 4 style Magazine Release. On the Glock 43 (and other Gen 4 Glocks) the Magazine Release is reversible and is not too difficult to remove, it consists of an internal Frame-mount Magazine Release Spring that fits into the notches of the Magazine Release, those notches and spring are easily identifiable in this picture:
If you noticed the marring inside my Frame, I had used a flat head screwdriver to tension the spring away from the Frame while attempting the reinstall the new Magazine Release, you need an exotic tool (just kidding) like a Pick or a Paperclip, to uninstall and reinstall you will slide the spring away from the groove and out, then reinstall but sliding it back in the groove channel and inwards
As a final note on the Glock 43, when reinstalling the components into your Frame, ensure that the Slide Release is installed into the Frame before the Locking Block comes on to ensure it indexes properly, when you reinstall the Trigger Housing Pin ensure that you apply pressure forward on the Slide Release to align the holes of the Magazine Release and the Locking Block
I do not have great pictures, but I wanted to do a sub-section on barrels, especially the different kinds of barrels that are available for Glocks and all the different manufacturers. There is a lot of anecdotal evidence on the internet about what is the “best” barrel, why you should use a certain manufacturer’s barrel, how to get the best accuracy and so on – confirmation bias fuels a lot of that, so here is my professional opinion based on my experience. Take this with a grain of salt, my usage opinions differ and it is up to you on how to equip your weapon.
The stock Glock barrel is not at all that bad, I have done an accuracy at test at 25 meters using a Ransom Rest with an OEM Glock 17 barrel, then had a Lone Wolf barrel, a Zev Barrel and a KKM – with standard 115gr Winchester White Box, the deviation after 10 rounds through each barrel was highly negligible, the groupings varied by less than 1.2” at 25 meters which shows you the mechanical accuracy, the KKM barrel came out on top with the Glock barrel right next to it, unfortunately I do not have detailed data or pictures of that test and I hope to reproduce it soon and reverify those numbers.
Some on the internet insist you cannot use a Glock barrel to fire casted lead or coated lead rounds, citing that the polygonal rifling lends itself to getting extremely leaded - I do not understand that assertion, Glock barrels (polygonal rifling) utilizes hammer forging around a mandrel with the impression of the rifling – leaving “hills and valleys” versus “lands and grooves” which leave less surface area and divots to collect debris and gunk. These barrels have better structural integrity and reduce the drag and deformation of bullets. Versus my buddy’s KKM barrel which is button rifled, my barrel had nowhere near the amount of leading that the KKM did.
The other topic on barrels that tends to get covered on the internet is the accuracy, you will see aftermarket barrel companies such as ZevTech, use buzzwords like “broach cut rifling” or “match rifle-style” or something similar – as I covered, polygonal rifling leads to less deformation and has less area to cause lead or other residues to build up. Hammer forging is very cost prohibitive for most manufactures unless they are buying blanks, and the manufacturing process creates a lot of stress which needs to be heated treated, another manufacturing cost. Button rifling or traditional rifling cuts do not create as much stress, and lower cost to manufacture, hence why all the major aftermarket Glock barrels out there use that style of rifling. Of course, Glock mass produces and is a huge company, other barrels tend to be much more expensive to maintain margins, and there are “cool guy” features like Fluted and Dimpled barrels that are touted as being used by SOF/SMU (total bullshit by the way).
There are some special cases where you would want to use an Aftermarket barrel, and I am not knocking them at all. My Glock 43 wears a Titanium Nitride (TiN) coated Fluted/Threaded barrel from Blacklist that I got on sale from Brownell’s, accuracy wise it is a wash from the standard barrel, though the additional half inch of length probably helps a little bit out of the already diminutive Glock 43. Glock does make Threaded Barrels, but they are rarer and there are not ones for every single model, so you may be forced to pick up an Aftermarket threaded Barrel for your compensator or sound-suppression device. Other specialized uses are “conversion” barrels – for instance they have barrels from Lone Wolf that can “convert” a .40SW (Glock 22) to a 9mm or converting a 10mm (Glock 20) to a .40SW. Past that, there are ported barrels that exist, these allow you to have some gas venting and compensation without having to spend the additional money on the compensator and adjusting your spring rates. Some companies still also make extended “Hunter” barrels – Lone Wolf made a 9 inch 9mm and 10mm barrel at one point, while goofy looking, will squeeze velocity and accuracy out of pistol calibers.
Whatever direction you go, I wouldn’t believe the hype of the internet and do your own research as I have done so myself. I think aftermarket barrels play to people’s psyche and have a placebo effect on accuracy, I would rather attempt to tune the trigger, hone my fundamentals or even replace sights before I messed around with a barrel. You can counter-argue that competition shoots use custom barrels in their weapons, but even if my Ransom Rest tests were inconclusive, I am aware that I am not at a Bianchi Cup or USPSA World Champion’s level of prowess to even appreciate the extra millimeters of accuracy that an aftermarket barrel can theoretically offer.
Last edited by AnotherSOFSurvivor; 04-08-2017 at 10:25 PM.
That is a lot of info! As a Glock owner I appreciate the knowledge. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by AnotherSOFSurvivor
Thanks for the excellent detailed presentation.
Ok, Glocks are VERY Ugly guns. Period.
I was looking for a video and saw this, I think the gun actually looked better...
Great thread. I'm no fan of Glock (no experience) but you are awesome for posting this. Subscribed!
Last edited by SGG; 04-08-2017 at 10:19 PM.
I have a few in the mix here. I'm no Glock fanboy but I do have to say for me they go bang everytime!
Easy to own and maintain and plenty of after market if you want.
Ease of field strip was the biggest selling point for my purchase of the 19 model.
No tools needed to strip and clean the parts that get dirty.
"Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats." - H. L. Mencken
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