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Wolf 50Cal Muzzleloader question
This is a discussion on Wolf 50Cal Muzzleloader question within the General Talk forums, part of the General Discussion category; I was at a big event tonight with door prizes and ending prizes. 300+ people and to my surprise
I got the last prize a ...
Wolf 50Cal Muzzleloader question
I was at a big event tonight with door prizes and ending prizes. 300+ people and to my surprise
I got the last prize a Wolf Muzzleloader 50Cal with Simmons scope.
My problem is I know nothing about muzzleloaders but gladly accepted the prize at the event.
Please help with any ideas on learning this new rifle! I Have watched several Youtube videos
and have a basic idea but what are the main in and outs of this type rifle?
I've got the same model that I use for early deer season. Pick up a box of 209 primers, 209 is a primer size not a brand and can be found in many sporting stores and a few packs of roughly 300 gn 50 cal bullets. Modern muzzleloaders use pyodex tables instead of black powder. I like to use the 50 gn size since one "pellet" works well for target shooting for short ranges and two 50 gn tablets will easily take a deer at 80 yards. Your rifle can handle up to 3 "pellets" but one heck of a kick with that heavy 300 gn bullet.
"Black powder" rifles require frequent barrel cleaning. After a shot or 2 you will find it's harder to push the ram rod all the way down, usually 3-4 shots is all I can get before I need to clean the barrel. Accuracy will suffer if you don't fully push the bullet all the way down the barrel so plan on bringing a bit of water to the range to swab the barrel out with a bit of water often to help you fully seat the bullet.
Cleaning the barrel is easy, the cheap and easy way is just to pour some water down the barrel in the sink and swap it with a dry cloth before running an oil patch to minimize rust. There are several cleaners like "Bore Butter" to help but plain old sink water works fine dissolving the powder residue.
CVS Wolf rifles are poorly blued so wipe the barrel down with a fairly heavy oil, especially the muzzle, before storing.
Last edited by 8301; 05-14-2016 at 11:47 PM.
Originally Posted by FoolAmI
Rifle came with 209's and various 50Cal bullets and powder. I really want to learn how to fire this properly and not blow my hand off!
Thanks for your reply will give it a try!
Sounds like you got a deal ,, best of luck to you ,, lets us know how things go .post a pic if you can .
Sweet prize, I like muzzle loaders. Yes, we need pics!
Bore butter is a TC product a lube not a cleaner......
Originally Posted by FoolAmI
I don't like those "new" "muzzleloaders". made mostly for those hunters who won't learn traditional ML so they can take advantage of "ML" deer seasons.
I use a flinter or traditional sidelock. Real powder, once you go black, you won't go back. Snake oil crap about newer powders is just that. If you can't get black (goex USA made, Swiss one of the best, or Kik Chezk ) try hogdon 777. They always go off and open sights to 100 yds deadly.......patched RB or traditional conical. Traditional match ML shoot 1000 yd matches......
For those newer "muzzleloaders" , find the correct "suppository" for you caliber. You need to know the twist of the barrel, find that by running a patched jag down your barrel and count the turns. Most newer "ML" are fast twist to use saboted pistol/special bullets. As EACH load is a handload you need to try powder amounts, suppository, and primer. You vary one at a time to find the sweet spot. The real lazy loaders use 50 gr non-black "pellets", that you cannot fine tune.
And cleaning? depends on your powder. Real black and warm water is all you need. You also need to clean between shots. POI will vary from clean to dirty barrel. I sight in on a spotless clean barrel, as it won't rust and it will hit what is aimed at.
Don't have a link to "suppository"MLs, but google up Toby Bridges, he is a sniper rather than hunter, and has pissed off the traditional MLs with his rantings about inlines
If you use loose powder 90-100 grains is fine. If your receiver is rated for magnum charges up to 150gr. will work. Most people like Blackhorn 209 because it burns cleaner than Pyrodex or black powder. I just drop two Pyrodex 50gr. pellets down followed by a 250gr. TC Shockwave sabot and cap it with Winchester 209 shotgun primers. My NEF Sidekick goes boom every time. If you use saboted rounds the plastic sabot acts as a lubricant so you don't need bore butter. If you plan to hunt with it, and you should, you have a great setup and congrats on the win!
Traditionalists scoff at me all the time for using an inline. If I were going to the rendezvous and dressing like a mountain man I'm sure I'd have the finest flintlock money could buy from Dixie Gun Works. I hunt. I want the most accurate, lethal and WEATHERPROOF option available to me. To each his own. I'm still waiting for one of those old codgers to challenge me to a 300 yard shootout. Their smooth bore flintlock VS. my Austin and Halleck .50 caliber.
"There is a destiny that shapes our ends, Rough, hew them as we will."
Last few I went to the traditional shooters outshot the inlines by far. My friend Bill, who won absolute marksman (off hand 50 yds, one ragged hole, jager flint he built himself), commented on the inline category winner, "You would not have placed 3rd in traditional, and you had a scope!".
Originally Posted by csi-tech
I laugh at black rifle "sprayers" at 100 yds with my hawkens ( .45 cal 1-18 GM barrel, lyman peep, FFg swiss or .54 TC 1-66 w/prb).
In the woods my traditionals have been in nor'easters and rains, they still go BOOM! Not like some fiends suppository fed inlines..... I have learned how to feed them and take care of them.
If you want to shoot against one of those "old codgers", try a 1000 yd match shoot , with open sights, against a withworth or gibbs rifle. That would be a .45 cal shooting a 550 gr lead pill over F or FF FFFg, real black.
Dixie Gun Works muzzleloading, blackpowder and rare antique gun supplies.
Gibbs Deluxe, Rifles Gibbs (1865) .
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