Need Help With 12 VDC Wiring Problem.
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Need Help With 12 VDC Wiring Problem.

This is a discussion on Need Help With 12 VDC Wiring Problem. within the General Talk forums, part of the General Discussion category; I am planning to mount two 12 VDC truck lights 15 feet high after a 30 foot run of heavy braided outside light wire. I ...

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Thread: Need Help With 12 VDC Wiring Problem.

  1. #1
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    Need Help With 12 VDC Wiring Problem.

    I am planning to mount two 12 VDC truck lights 15 feet high after a 30 foot run of heavy braided outside light wire.

    I plan to have two means of turning the lights on: a light switch and a trip wire.

    I intend for both lights to come on by either method to insure that at least one stays on if fired upon.

    I want to use just a two strand wire (extension cord type) to the lights.

    I will first run the negative wire directly to both lights.

    Question #1:

    I plan to run a positive wire to the light-switch
    and another positive wire to the trip-wire switch,
    and then join the trip-wire exit-wire to the exit wire from the light-switch.

    Will this be a problem if first the light-switch is turned on and then later the trip-wire goes hot?

    Question #2:

    I had planned to wrap two wires around both sides of a wooden clothes pin and use a plastic tab as the pull pin.
    Is there a better/simpler way of doing this?

    See the PDF drawing attached. Thanks.
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    Last edited by jimcosta; 04-28-2020 at 11:59 AM.
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  2. #2
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    You are OK Jim, . . . no problem other than the fact that you will have to go out and reset the trip switch if something trips it.

    May God bless,
    Dwight
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  3. #3
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    Back in the day we used an old set of points to fab up kill switches when racing. May be a bit more durable than the clothes pin. Also when I was in school we would mock up a desktop circuit to checked that everything worked.
    Elvis likes this.
    A wise man once said, "Never argue with an idiot, anyone watching will not know who is who".

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  5. #4
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    Thanks Dwight. Actually the trip wire is inside our guardhouse. The wire will be pulled by a guard, and by timing lengths of cord, will fire a shotgun alarm behind the intruders, then drop a camp tarp hanging over the gate and at the same time turn on the floodlights. Thus the intruders will have their backs to the guards and blinded if the turn around even though they will have been ordered not to do so.
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  6. #5
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    Iscrewloose: So what I need to do is have the lead in attached to the top of the plug and solder the exit wire to the wrench attachment area?

    Won't this just give an arc and not a continuous circuit through the gap?
    Or would a covered piece of wire be set in the arc and when pulled drag up a knotted bare wire section bridging the arc?

    I am confused as you can see.
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  7. #6
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    On a set of old automobile points the wire connects to each side of the contacts. When the plastic is pulled it completes the circuit and turns on the lights and what not. On motorcycles we used it in reverse. It was used to break the circuit, stop the engine. You'd still have to manually reset the plastic between the contacts.

    The points are normally closed by a flat spring, once the plastic is removed you have a closed circuit.
    When the points are closed it acts like a solid piece of wire, they operate in normally closed condition.

    The same principle as your clothes pin idea only using points, don't over think it. hope this helps.
    Last edited by 1skrewsloose; 04-28-2020 at 01:58 PM.
    A wise man once said, "Never argue with an idiot, anyone watching will not know who is who".

  8. #7
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    Now I've got it. Its not the spark plug but the points. Thanks.
    I assume the points are generally rated for a continuous 12 volt current, right?
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  9. #8
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    I was doing some thinking and also came up with a single knife switch ($5 at Amazon).

    The tarp on the gate will be attached to a horizontal 2 X 4 on it's top.
    It will have a looped paracord hanging over the top bar of the gate at each end of the gate.

    At each location there are two 1 inch angle brackets screwed to the gate pipe, with a one inch gap between them.
    A nail will slide between the two angles with a longer cord tied to the head of the nail.
    When the cord is pulled the nails will release the loops, dropping the board and tarp so our guards get a better view of the intruders.

    Perhaps I might tie a weight on the knife switch handle with a loop in the weight string held in place by the angles described above. Then when the main cord is pulled the knife switch will close.

    Your thoughts?
    Last edited by jimcosta; 04-28-2020 at 02:31 PM.
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  10. #9
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    The points will handle continuous 12v no problem, when in a 8 cylinder car running at 3000 rpm they open and close 24000 times a minute, they would only come into play at the onset of intrusion, for as long as it lasts. A little hard for me to visualize your setup, thought you said a guard would trip the switch. I believe in KISS. Guess you could go either way, guard tripping the switch or the gate doing double duty with the tarp and turning on the lights. If the gate fails you'd loose lights, though.
    A wise man once said, "Never argue with an idiot, anyone watching will not know who is who".

  11. #10
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    Upon further thought, nothing wrong with having redundant systems for security purposes. Maybe use both?
    A wise man once said, "Never argue with an idiot, anyone watching will not know who is who".

 

 
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